Question about Super Steer upgrade for a 1650

[thenrie]

I was looking at the Cub FAQ page and noticed the Super Steer upgrade. The documentation is pretty sparse. One question I had is why they recommend the use of a 3/4" bolt as a pivot pin, rather than a regular pivot pin? Have any of you replaced your pivot pin with a 3/4" bolt and a jam nut? Why?

Also, they offered no documentation regarding the greasable hubs they show. I would like to get part numbers for the hubs and the axle, so I can get the right things the first time, if anybody has that info.

There is a different greasable hub upgrade on the PF Engineering site, which is an alteration of the wide frame spindles. Any thoughts as to which would be better, stronger, easier, cheaper?

[ajgross]

I'm not exactly sure this is why they use the bolt, but I do know that the the axles with a pin through them will spread the crossmember causing some "play". If you put a bolt through it, it shouldn't spread or if it does, you can tighten the bolt and remove the "play".

AJ

[RPalmer]

Will an O axle bolt work????

[Merk]

by ajgross
I'm not exactly sure this is why they use the bolt, but I do know that the the axles with a pin through them will spread the crossmember causing some "play". If you put a bolt through it, it shouldn't spread or if it does, you can tighten the bolt and remove the "play".

AJ

That is why my Son and I did that to the 86. We had to machine/grind off at least half the bolt head thickness for oil pan clearance (deep sump oil pan). It will make it harder to install a motor with a deep sump and clutch driver.

You shouldn't need a spindle upgrade unless you are installing a loader on your Cub.

[MFP8055]

The axle bolt is used to pull the channel tighter and eliminate the slop in the pivot. It works great, and I did it to my 1650 with an x82 bolt. Be aware that the head of the bolt WILL interfere with the oil pan. The bolt head needs to be ground-down to about half it's normal thickness. Many thanks to the guys at Patton Acres for guiding me through this process and providing the bolt.

[thenrie]

So, on the thread end, do you use a self-locking nut or do you drill it for a cotter pin and castle nut for retention? Are there any drawbacks to using a bolt as opposed to the original pin?

The PO of my 1650 allowed the rolled pin to slip out of the pivot pin, which allowed the pivot pin to work its way forward until it slipped out of the rear socket. That eventually allowed the axle to roll forward, ripping the front pivot socket right out of the frame crossmember. I am about to repair it by welding a new piece of steel to the front of the crossmember with a new pivot socket welded in place. While I'm doing that I was thinking about doing the bolt thing to prevent it from happening again.

Once the axle was out of commission, the PO parked the 1650 in the woods and left it. I found it when I bought the house. It sat so long that now the spindles are frozen in the axle and I'm not sure I can free them up. I am considering the Super Steer and hub upgrades, since it looks like I will need to replace the axle and spindles and eventually I will build a loader for the 1650.

[MFP8055]

I used the castle nut on my axle bolt. If you use cub axle bolt the hole in the bolt is just a little short of where it needs to be. I ended up using a piece of hard wire instead of a cotter pin because that's all that would fit. You could always re-drill the bolt though.

[Matt G.]

I bought nylock jam nuts of the appropriate size for this purpose...they work great.