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#1
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48 deck ideas
I have a decent 48" deck that I am going to start working on soon . Would it help suction if I made new baffles that extend a quarter inch or so ? What are your thoughts . Also I am thinking of taking 2 sets of blades cutting the middle section out of one set and welding them to the other set and then welding a disc to do the gusseting so they are strong and turning the thickness of the disc on the spacers . What do you guys think ? I can't afford megli's blades
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#2
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As far as the double blades,
#1, I wouldn't recommend any welding as it is unsafe and a balance issue. #2 I tried stacking one blade on top of the other to resemble a centered cross, as a trial once. It took more power to operate, didn't improve the cut one bit and did not discharge smaller clippings or throw farther, but it did make a louder "roaring" sound while operating. This was on a 50" deck with 18 hp. Your results may vary, no animals or endangered spotted zeta skeeters were harmed, or earthworms disturbed. |
#3
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I did the double blade thing a few years ago on a 38" deck that I had on a 1210. All I did was bolt one set on top of the other. Helped the cut some.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#4
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I believe there are some "flaws" in the design of the older Cub Cadet mower decks.
The baffles should come down even with the bottom of the deck. The "wings" on the trailing side of the blades should be much bigger and stand taller than they do. AND the discharge on the decks should be much bigger. If you balance your blades and send them to have the welds x-rayed when you're finished, I would think you should be okay. Otherwise, I believe I'd shy away from cutting and welding them.
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More IH Cub Cadet Parts RIGHT HERE |
#5
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So taking the baffles down flush to the bottom of the deck would be best ? I am not worried about the welds and I run a small steel share house and fab shop so making the blades work is not a big deal and the way I want to put the together would be safe
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#6
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I would measure your blades and go poke around the blade section at tsc or lowes etc. See if you can find a modern blade that will fit your deck, one with a larger/taller wing like Mark said. Last fall, I picked up a set of "mulching" blades for a 46" MTD mower on clearence at Walmart. It had two longer and one correct length blade. I cut down the 2 longer blades and dremeled out the star center enough to fit the spindles on my 44a deck. Suction did not really improve (because my deck currently has no baffle), but they did chop the leaves finer. I plan on putting a baffle on it to see what kind of improvement it makes. Overall I was pretty happy with my $17 experiment.
Bill |
#7
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My Cub Cadet dealer, after selling me parts for 20 years,,,
finally admitted that many Cub Cadet decks had a basic flaw of slow rotation. The admission was after he was no longer a dealer. The similar design JD and Gravely decks always cut nicer,,, they have higher tip speed. The last 128 that I mowed with had the pulley changed to increase the tip speed. It cut great. |
#8
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48" mowers cut great as is IMO. Leave the design alone and don't go cutting/welding on them. I agree about a speed up pulley, but I've never used one and have never needed to use one.
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Daniel G. . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
#9
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True statement. But that wasn't the only problem.
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#10
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I have welded aerolons, for no better word ( if I even spelled it correct) to increase the lift. They did work well. They never came off, but that was always In the back of my mind.
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