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#1
04-30-2023, 12:27 AM
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1966 123, I think my engine needs help
I was tilling with my 123 today. It just quit running..... no weird noises, thankfully. Disengaged the tiller, made sure it was in the neutral position, set the brake, and tried to start it. It cranks MUCH easier than it ever has, but it will not run. The drive shaft is spinning ok, engine just won't run. I don't think it is making any compression.
The engine has always sounded "loose" since I bought it what, 10 years ago? It has always started slow…with a good battery: uh ruh, uh ruh, uh ruh…then, it would take off and run I believe I will be removing the engine to see what is wrong inside. I am guessing a connecting rod? We'll see. Any help, comments, etc would be appreciated. Looking at a rebuild kit from isavetractors.... any other suggestions? Soon, maybe tomorrow, I will take the spark plug out and see if it's making any compression.
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nra1ifer  Cub Cadet 123, Wheel Horse C160, Craftsman PGT9000, Speedex 1631 
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#2
04-30-2023, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#3
04-30-2023, 09:59 AM
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Very well could be compression. Keep in mind when you check compression
by the number there is a compression release ( I think) that will make it hard to be real accurate. Can you turn the engine backwards by hand easily or is it tough. Tough would be good. With spark plug in. I would pull the head and take a good look at head and cylinder before I started thinking about buying parts. Good luck, let us know what you see in there. Ken
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#4
04-30-2023, 10:16 AM
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Might have a stuck valve, you can check to see if the piston is moving by removing the breather. There is a little breather hole in the block, you can see in to check.
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile!
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#5
04-30-2023, 09:58 PM
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And the winner is.........
connecting rod! In taking apart the head, I wasn't happy with the lack of good torque on the head bolts. The valves look good and operate nicely. I cleaned up the head and the top of the piston. The cylinder wall looks very nice. Rings appear to be ok. Crank looks and feels very smooth. Removing the engine wasn't very difficult, but that sucker sure is HEAVY. MAN, I DO love these old things! Considering the carnage in the pan, I feel like I am super fortunate that there wasn't more damage done. From what I could see of the pieces, I think one of the bolts at the crank was backing out, finally overstressing the other side? I am thinking that I can manage this repair with a new connecting rod, a head gasket, and a pan gasket. What do you think??
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nra1ifer Cub Cadet 123, Wheel Horse C160, Craftsman PGT9000, Speedex 1631
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#6
04-30-2023, 10:05 PM
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Yup that's carnage alright. Amazes me you didn't hear it break.
If it were me I would give it a serious clean inside and out and replace all the gaskets and seals. Since you are already in there. Good luck. Ken
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#7
04-30-2023, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Since this is my first time inside this engine, can you give me an idea of the gaskets and seals you'd be replacing??
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nra1ifer Cub Cadet 123, Wheel Horse C160, Craftsman PGT9000, Speedex 1631
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#8
05-01-2023, 05:34 AM
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To do it correctly you need to pull the engine apart and take the block and crank to a machine shop and have them check it. It will most likely need to be bored and the crank turned. They will tell you what size piston and rods to order and then when you take them the new parts they will machine your parts.
Here is one place that people have had good luck with rebuild kits. https://www.ebay.com/itm/38164178087...Bk9SR9ywsOr6YQ I have also heard good things about Norman. https://isavetractors.com/ I would call Norman and talk to him about your issue and he could steer you in the right direction.
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction
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