A few K321 Questions

Cubcadet_107 · #1 11-01-2020, 10:55 PM

So I've been working on the k321 from my 147 over the past few weeks, dismantling it to remove the balance gears and replace the main seals. I have a couple of questions regarding it, so well, here goes:

1. Is the crankshaft supposed to be milled? Upon removing the oil sump I found the crank has been milled, on the bottom of the counterweights, and on the top, next to the con rod journal on both sides. Is this normal? I'm rather new to the k321. Should mention that I am not the first one inside this engine.

2. How do I remove the valves? I have never removed the valves from one of these (never needed to before) and upon inspection, I cannot figure out the retainer system. It isn't anything like what I've seen on other engines, I expected some sort of pin.

3. Where is a good place to get a flywheel puller? Of course the only type of puller I have (3-jaw) is the type that the manual specifically tells me NOT to use to remove the flywheel

. Any thoughts on a good store to find a proper puller?

Any Information helps me here, and I thank you in advance. Cheers

IMG_20201101_204900.jpg IMG_20201101_204910.jpg

IMG_20201101_204936.jpg

finsruskw · #2 11-02-2020, 04:16 AM

You will need a valve spring compressor to remove the stem keepers releasing the valves.
Be very careful not to damage the rotators with this tool, making sure the tool is inserted UNDER the rotator and not through it.

Take notes and be sure the valves and springs go back in the same way.
Best to download the FSM for the K series Kohlers and have it in front of you.
Has step by step instructions w/pics on dis and re assembly
And yes, there are spots on the crank that have been milled, not to worry

You need a puller set that uses bolts. They screw into the threaded and tapped holes in the flywheel.
Clean it well, locate the timing marks (S & T) and mark them w/a dab of white paint for future reference so you can correctly static time the engine.

Good luck!

mortten · #3 11-02-2020, 10:11 AM

You need one of each of these.

ol'George · #4 11-02-2020, 10:18 AM

The milling is part of the balancing and machining process,
and is very common to see.

Cubcadet_107 · #5 11-02-2020, 11:28 AM

So, upon looking through the engine service manual, I found that it mentions a sort of "valve rotator mechanism" that can either be on only the intake valve or both valves. Both valves do seem to rotate when I spin the engine over by hand. Is that what I'm dealing with here?

mjs2011 · #6 11-02-2020, 11:31 AM

You might find this video series on youtube helpful. He goes into quite a few details for dissassembly, measuring the crank and bore, and reassembly.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...WZjQdfaIwyszbR

ol'George · #7 11-02-2020, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107

So, upon looking through the engine service manual, I found that it mentions a sort of "valve rotator mechanism" that can either be on only the intake valve or both valves. Both valves do seem to rotate when I spin the engine over by hand. Is that what I'm dealing with here?

you are dealing with regular valve rotators like any engine has since no lead gas.
some have them some don't
they just sit on top of the valve spring under the valve keepers and rotate the valve just a smidgeon every time the valve opens and closes,
just keep the valve and spring stuff with the same valve and location.
the keepers are the same so no worry there.

They make the height of the valve spring keeper receiver about 3/16 higher than one that don't have the rotator.

Cubcadet_107 · #8 11-03-2020, 10:09 AM

I guess I'll get a valve spring compressor and see what I can do. I only need to pull the exhaust valve, so not much worry about mixing up pieces between the two. Reason being is there's a ton of crud under the valve that I can't get to, because there's no way I'm getting the exhaust elbow off. Better to just leave it alone, there's an easier way to get into the chamber.