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#1
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Yep, it happened.
I was using the FEL on the 1772 a little hard the last few days and I cracked the frame where the power steering ram mounts to the frame. Never mind the half-a$$ed spacer I had to use to clear the mount. I was gonna change that someday when I had my shop but I ain't there yet. IIRC this isn't an easy fix. Has anyone had any luck repairing them? Pic needs turned 90* clockwise. IMG_4761 (002).jpg
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
#2
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Ouch! That sucks big time. I defer to others on the fix.
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http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=42646 70, #1 cart. Brinly Cultivator. Some wheel weights. {125, 126, 2072-Sold~regrettably, 2284 60 inch Haban 325 deck., 451 snowblower, 2182-60 inch Haban 374 deck- "Money Pit", 401 Haban 54 inch dozer blade- rebuilt, 1440-down the road, Another 2182 for parts. Another 2284 for parts. 450 blower. 1812-sold, 2072 w/ Haban 374, and a 2182#3 w/ Haban 325}-------> All SOLD |
#3
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Repairing them" meaning a frame crack??
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1- 1864 Dual hyd, cat 0, axle braces 1- 1450 Dual Stick w/ power steering 1- 1200 in pieces 1- 1864 in pieces QA36A Thrower, #1 Tiller w/ extensions, IH windbreaker, IH wheel weights, 44C mower deck, 50C mower deck, CCC 54" Blade, GT46 high vacuum deck, GT54 deck, Cub Tripple Bagger, Custom dozer blade, Custom suitcase weights, 3pt cultivator, lawn sweeper, original R-Bucket |
#4
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Take the mount off, v grind the crack and weld it. If you do it well, only need to weld the one side. I suggest adding a plate to the inside of the frame for added support. Or at least a flat bar between those to bolts where it cracked. Don't need to weld it in. Just use the bolts and sandwich the frame.
A spacer plate instead of those washers might help too. This is an area of frame breakage I posted about a few months back. (And got called crazy and paranoid.) I've seen like 3 or 4, 982's broke there. (No power steering.) I think all those holes together make a weak spot on the frame. I've only seen the 9'S break there. This is the first tractor break there that had ps that I've seen/head of. |
#5
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Yes, I have read several posts on different things people have tried with no luck. What stinks is this 1772 is in awesome shape with all original paint.
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
#6
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Thanks Jon. I need a good kick in the arse. I was flexing the frame too much lifting one rear wheel off of the ground trying to clean up some stuff on the burn pile.
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
#7
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Well Todd time to test out your welding skills and the Esab. I will add to what has been stated that you should drill a small hole at each end of the crack as well before welding.
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
#8
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Do your loader mounts stretch back to the rear axle?
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#9
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Quote:
I started to state that too..... then thought about it a little more, lol. |
#10
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I’d like to see the crack without the mount on there, looks like it’s above the big holes?.
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
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