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Old 10-07-2014, 10:16 AM
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Default Tiller mule drive?
I just got a free tiller complete with gearbox and Brinly lift. After doing some research I get the feeling that there is some special mule drive for these tillers. I have a spare mule drive for a mower deck, can I use this and convert it to the mule drive I need?
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Old 10-07-2014, 10:35 AM
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I believe they are just a stripped down mower deck mule drive with just the QA portion that holds the two pulleys.
And replace the tensioning spring with another bolt style adjuster.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1A%20Tille...s%20Manual.pdf
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Old 10-07-2014, 12:05 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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Excellent deal, you can't beat free.

Double07 is basically correct, you need a mule drive that fits your particular model tractor, the pulley mounting arms need to be straight (not bent at an angle) the pulleys should be solid, not stamped.

Not to be splitting hairs but, the yellow parts in your picture are Cub Cadet parts, they are a 3 point hitch.
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Old 10-07-2014, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam View Post
Excellent deal, you can't beat free.

Double07 is basically correct, you need a mule drive that fits your particular model tractor, the pulley mounting arms need to be straight (not bent at an angle) the pulleys should be solid, not stamped.

Not to be splitting hairs but, the yellow parts in your picture are Cub Cadet parts, they are a 3 point hitch.
True, I guess what I'm reffering to is the completely different Brinly adapter that dosn't have IH cast into it unlike my "top link".
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Old 10-07-2014, 07:32 PM
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I believe they are just a stripped down mower deck mule drive with just the QA portion that holds the two pulleys.
And replace the tensioning spring with another bolt style adjuster.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1A%20Tille...s%20Manual.pdf
1. Why do they need to be solid pulleys?
2. What does QA stand for again?
3. Why cant keep the spring?
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:46 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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QA, stands for "quick attach" the QA started with the 1X5 series tractors, earlier ones were "bolt on".

They say that the stamped pulleys won't "hold up" they will wear through and come apart. I have seen tillers set up with the stamped pulleys, but it is not recommended.

I'm not sure about the spring thing... I think at least one of my tillers is set up with the spring tensionor.

Please understand that I don't recommend such modifications.
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:47 PM
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1. Why do they need to be solid pulleys?
2. What does QA stand for again?
3. Why cant keep the spring?
1) Solid pulleys are stronger and won't split like a stamped and spot welded pulley could. ( remember, you have a $50 to $90 belt running the tiller )

2) Quick Attach

3) The long belt keeps better tension without the spring.

edit-- Yosemite Sam types faster than me
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:50 PM
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Thank you guys for your advice. I am on the lookout now for a tiller mule drive. I think it will be cheaper in the long run for me to just buy one.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:30 PM
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I use one from a mower. I just straightened the pulley arms.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:50 PM
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Thank you guys for all the help. I will probably just end up buying a tiller muel drive just to save time and money.
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