129 starter runs constantly

[Rodster]

Thought so. Kind of hard to supply the kind of current needed to turn over a starter without a solenoid or very heavy duty switch.


In the original post it sounds like the starter constantly runs when the key in in the run position.

If that's the case, sounds like a wiring issue?

[TheSaturnV]

Read ol'George's post. I'd be surprised if you didn't have a wire out of position on the aftermarket V/R. I experienced the exact issue you are having. Look closely and see what the terminals are labeled. It has something to do with the solo terminal on the bottom side.

[ol'George]

My Bad, getting old and forgetful, been a lot of years since I've worked on them.

[129Richard]

It runs after I attempt to start it and turn the switch to what I 'd call the run position??? Key switch is brand new from cub cadet directly. Voltage regulator is aftermarket....will recheck to make sure it's correctly wired.

[finsruskw]

Is the switch THE SAME as the one you removed??

Part number IH-60736-C1

Voltage regulator IH-545130-R92

[ironman]

Originally Posted by 129Richard

It runs after I attempt to start it and turn the switch to what I 'd call the run position??? Key switch is brand new from cub cadet directly. Voltage regulator is aftermarket....will recheck to make sure it's correctly wired.

There are hundreds of key swiches out there that all look the same on the outside,
but make different connections on the inside when off or operated, so it is important that you have the correct switch.
As stated above, IH-60736-C1 or IH-60736-C3 which replaced it.

On the regulator, there are 3 terminal and 4 terminal models.

If you have the 3 terminal model, the terminals are labled "B" (bat), "G" (gen), and "F" (field).
You may, or may not also have a ground terminal that is attached directly to the regulator base.
The "B" terminal should have a gray wire coming from your amp meter (if you have one).
The "G" terminal should have a blue wire coming from the "A" terminal on your s/g.
The "F" terminal should have a yellow wire coming from the "F" terminal on your s/g.

If you have the 4 terminal model, the terminals are labeled "B" (bat), "F" (field), "L" (load), and "G" (gen).
The "G" terminal will be on the underneath of the base. Do not mistake it as being for "ground".
The "B" terminal should have the gray wire coming from your amp meter.
The "F" terminal should have the yellow wire coming from the "F" terminal on your s/g.
The "G" terminal shold have the blue wire coming from the "A" terminal on your s/g.
If you have headlights, put the wire from the headlight switch on the "L" terminal.

Whether 3 or 4 terminal regulator, the base must have a good connection to ground.

[Carpetbagger]

I would try disconnecting all wires except the hot wire from the solenoid to the s/g, leaving all wires connected to and from the switch and battery and coil. Everything that goes to the battery would be attached to the hot post of the solenoid. If the mystery starting stopped, this would point to either the wiring of the v/r or the wiring from the s/g to the v/r (or a short in that wiring.) As a sort of double check, try hot wiring the engine by connecting a jump wire from the positive post of the coil to the hot post of the s/g and run jumper cables from the positive post of the battery to the same post on the s/g and a ground cable from the negative post on the battery to the motor block. Also get the wiring diagram for the 129 on the internet and check your hook up of the v/r. I'm suspecting either faulty hook up or bad wiring to the v/r from the switch or solenoid or left side of the s/g. It would probably be easier to rewire the routing to the v/r after checking to wiring diagram. Good luck. I've been battling the same problem. Let us know what you find out. Carpetbagger

[jbrewer]

Note to self: Next time only replace one item at a time and make sure that it works after each substitution! :-)

[129Richard]

Victory! Maybe.....Swapped voltage regulator from my other 129 and no dice. Left V/R in and tried swapping out key switch with one from parts stores and boom she turns over correctly. Not sure what's wrong with oem key switch I spent $70 on ..... I'll have to check if it was correct part number??? No it at least turns over correctly but doesn't fire off.....I checked and there is spark just doesn't fire off?

[jbrewer]

That would leave fuel , timing and compression to check (in that order) :-)