Winsun Air Cooled V-Twin Diesel Repower

[Shrewcub]

Well I got to work this morning and noticed a big wooden crate on the floor. I didn't really get a good look at it until I left. I snapped a few pics for everyone. Included was an extra air, fuel, and oil filter. A complete gasket set, flywheel puller, one set of rings, and one connecting rod bearing (is that a bad sign? lol) were also in the bag with the manuals.

My main focus was the flywheel area so I can figure out how to attach the drive shaft. I think that will be the only real hurdle. I am still unsure which tractor to put this in. I have 2 with no motor in them at the moment. My original plan was to put it in the 2072. But 2 weeks ago I picked up the 782 with no motor.

The M20 is on the bench being cleaned up and resealed. It does have some noise from camshaft end play, that I am not real concerned with. I want some opinions, what engine would you put in each tractor if it was you?

The 782 will have a sleeve hitch and the 2072 will get a cat 0. Neither will see much if any grass killing, that belongs to the 1864. The 2072 will get the 450 snow blower in the winter due to the power steering and brakes. The 782 will get the plow and just making me look sexy!

Thanks for your input! I should get some better pics by the weekend.

[wm-webb]

Diesel + 2072
M20 + 782

That was easy, next.

[Sam Mac]

Travis

This looks like it will be an easy re-power. Looks like it will be easy to make a drive shaft adapter to bolt to the flywheel something along the lines of what Mid West Super Cubs makes for the Kohlers. If the engine will fit under the hood with the fuel tank that comes on the engine I'd probably use it and remove the Cub tank.

[ken6x6]

what kind of power does that winsun put out?

[Shrewcub]

A1biofuel, whom I purchased it from, advertise it as 22 max HP. Carroll Stream sells the same one with their stickers on it and without a fuel tank and claim 20 HP. The specs from Winsun say 12 kW at 3600 rpm. That converts to 16.3 HP.

It produces 38 Nm of torque, which is about 28 ft/lbs, at 2600 rpm. I think it should do some work! Here is the spec page from A1 http://a1biofuel.net/Winsun-25hp-Specs.html

[Shrewcub]

Well after bringing it home and completely unboxing it, I discovered I overlooked a crucial dimension. The width of the mounting plate is too wide to fit between the frame rails. It has two drain plugs, one on each side. It is 13 inches wide. The frame rails are 12.5 without the nuts for the QA shoulder bolts.

The Magnums were slightly offset to the right. Even if I removed the QA bolts and nuts, and shoe horned it in, the drive shaft would need cv joints to account for the angle. Even then the drive shaft would probably rub the steering column.

The frame would also have to be relieved or widened at the back also, to account for how wide the fan housing is.

Here are some pics. I guess I am gonna order a Vanguard

I really want to start this thing!! Do y'all (J-Mech) think I can properly seat the rings with no load?

[J-Mech]

Travis, I'm not following you. I looked at the motor dimensions of the Mag and of the diesel you got. It looks like it would work. The motor crankshaft is the same height as the Mag's so you should be able to set it on the engine plate and use the same spacers the Mag had. That should get it up out of the frame enough to be able to get it in. Now, you may not be able to put the side panels on it..... Why don't you set the plate in there and get the spacers and set it down in the frame and see how close it is. The driveshaft should be just to the left of the machine (as you sit on it) not the right. And no, you won't be able to seat the rings unless you load it some. Not seated like they should at least.

[Shrewcub]

Here is a pic of the mount plate in the tractor. If I were to cut the ends of the QA shoulder bolts off, the distance between the 2 nuts is 12 inches. The width of the oil pan is 12.4", but that does not account for the 2 oil drain plugs that stick out another .25" each. That is 12.9" and the frame rails are 12.5".

It is kinda hard to see in the previous posts pics, but the oil pan is the same width as the mount plate. I would have to drill my mounting holes through the plate and the frame of the tractor. Both drain plugs are going to be inaccessible without pulling the engine or drilling an access hole in the frame. That access hole would be right where the QA shoulder bolts are.

For my PTO to be in the proper position, the drainplugs are going to have to be right at or in front of the QA shoulder bolts. If this were going to be a pulling tractor, I wouldn't have a problem cutting the frame or loosing the QA bolts. This is going to be a working tractor, so for me that is out of the question.

Look at the engine mount holes and you can see that I am correct in that the engine/driveshaft is offset to the right side of the tractor (as you sit on it).

[Berwil]

Just thinking out loud, what if you cut the QA nuts off the inside to free up the space inside the rails. Cut the shoulder bolts down and weld them to an 1/8" plate from the backside and ground it down flush, then weld the plate to the frame to properly locate the bolts. My shoulder bolts were flat spotted so I put washers underneath so the bolt presents a full width rounded edge for the qa bracket to rest on (I know I can prob buys new ones) and have had no issue with being too wide for the implement bracket to slide over.

Will flush pipe plugs fit in the hole for the drain plugs? If so you can plug them both and add a new hole coming out the bottom? If not, maybe an Allen head set screw like to hold a pulley on sealed with glue/epoxy/rtv? This will at least allow it to sit in there. Out of the box solution, make a hollow QA bolt that you can use as a drain plug.

Bill

[Shrewcub]

Great minds think alike, Bill!

I have thought about welding the QA bolts on.

I like the hollow bolt/drain plug idea. I will give that some thought, while I think about what to do for a drive shaft.