Solid Motor Mounts and Driveshafts!

[crash-harris]

Long time no post! I need driveshaft flex coupler help. Please bear with me!

My 1250 finally bit the bullet a little bit, turns out the points burnt on my first day in the yard this year and the points spring is stuck open. Also killed a coil with low run time on it.

HOWEVER, replaced the coil, pulled the new-ish points from the grenaded 1200 along with the voltage regulator, newer ISO mounts and the braced mount plates to go in the 1250. As it turns out, the K301 in the 1250 didn't have ANY bolts in it and was just sitting loose in there. I noticed a few things when I pulled the engine from the 1250.

1. The 1250 had sold plastic mounts on bottom and old rubber on top! Maybe this is why some of the bolts sheared off in the oil pan...anyway, going to use those to solid mount the engine by just throwing a washer on top of the plate on each corner.

2. The Flex Disc, at least on the engine side, has become an oval and I noticed when attempting to start the engine previously, it had some really bad wobble. Since I'm solid mounting the engine, is there really any reason not to hard-bolt the driveshaft to the engine and transaxle, thereby deleting the flex joints?

3. Is there supposed to be a self centering bearing or something on the engine side, or was that only for the "Originals"?

I need to get this thing up and mowing again on the cheapest of the cheap. My grandparents Toro zero turn is kinda nice and all, but it gets stuck on my wet, hilly property to easy and scheduling time and a vehicle to borrow it is a real PITA!

So thanks!

[cooperino]

I would suggest you have a look at the manual found here in technical section.
Short answer to your question "can you remove Flex Disc" no.
It would be nearly impossible to achieve perfect alignment from engine to rear. Even if you could you would still want the joint as a buffer for torque related shock.

There may be other types of joints guys are running out there but none are cheaper or easier to getvthab the original type.

[R Bedell]

I agree, the Flex Disc is to compensate for the "misalignment" geometry of the axis between the engine and the transmission. Running solid would cause major problems.

[crash-harris]

Thanks for the info!

I do have 1 more question.

Is there really any difference between these 2 flex discs?

#1 - https://www.ihccw.com/index.php?rout...oduct_id=12555

#2 - https://www.ihccw.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1454&search=Rag+joint


I know the cheaper one reads "AFT", but they both have the same part numbers.

[R Bedell]

There are two different Flex Dics. It depends on the Drive Shaft Coupler being used.

The size of the interior hole is the difference.

[cubs-n-bxrs]

AFT on the cheaper one prolly stands for aftermarket and the more expensive one is Original Equipment Manufacture. That my best guess.

[twoton]

3. Yes there is suppose to be a ball bushing in the front drive hub.

[crash-harris]

I found the bushing/bearing in the plate on the crank from my 1250, it just wasn't in the plate any longer, but loose between the plate and the yoke! The boss on the end of the driveshaft is a bit worn.

New parts on order, but it looks like IHCCW is going to be closed for nearly 2 weeks. I guess I get to put it together and then take it back apart again when the parts finally arrive. I realized that I didn't even need a flex coupler/rag joint since there is still one on my parts 1200 on the rear of the driveshaft that's in good shape. Since IHCCW is closed, it looks like I won't be able to modify my order until after the 27th either.

At least I should be able to get this thing back together sometime soon, hopefully next week, and it will hold together until the new centering bearing plate arrives.

[finsruskw]

Go direct to cub cadet
If the order is like $70 or so or more, you get free shipping.

[R Bedell]

CC Specialties has them and ships the same day. Click on the Sponsors tab at the top of the page.