Loader Build Help

[Merk]

I have a Kwik Way loader that is missing the framework between the tractor and the loader.
The loader is going on my IH Cub Cadet 149.
Can someone post some pictures of their framework and hydraulic pump mount?

Thanks for any help.

[Cub Cadet 123]

Merk, I do not know if any of my pics on my thread help you out or not. The fella I got my loader from welded them himself. Let me know if you need closer shots of it or from a different angle.

Cub Cadet 123

[Randy Littrell]

Merk, check out Matt G's thread on his 682, should be pretty close to the same.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=5197






Randy

[cub123]

Here's the thread on my 149 with a Kwik-Way that I made a sub frame for.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=35713

[Merk]

Great topics on loader builds.

Cub Cadet 123
Looks like your loader build is in the same state as my loader build. I'm in the planning stage. I have the loader build plans from PF Engineering. I don't like how the loader is connected to the tractor in those plans. I want some bracing from the loader framework to the rear axle and to the center of the tractor frame. I may get carried away with the support on the loader frame.....rather have too much than not enough.

Matt G. and cub123
Great loader builds.

Randy Littrell
Thanks for posting a link to Matt G. loader build.

[Merk]

I found this write up on My Tractor Forum Site:
The Gent that wrote the article goes by Tudor

Author- Tudor
Original Date posted-6-2011
Information found on My Tractor Forum
Some excellent points being brought out that are sometimes missed with homemade FELs. I'll try to explain some of the critical areas without too much preaching to the already knowledgeable, but also with enough detail for the novice to be able to fabricate a FEL that won't break in service or break the tractor at heavier loads. This not meant to be used as a "blueprint" but as a source of information to assist with modifying any specific plans to the requirements of the individual tractor.

The Sub Frame

This is the foundation for a FEL and the primary protection device for the tractor frame. The tractor frame keeps all the parts in place in relationship to each other, but in reality does not need to be all that strong in its own right, except at the front end from the front back to the front axle and approximately an equal distance behind (the front axle support box). This area will, at some point in the life of a FEL equipped tractor, be required to support double the weight of the tractor and any attachments or counterweights, probably many times. Even a light gauge stamped frame will survive if a properly constructed, full length, sub frame is used.

Sub frame attaching points are the rear axle and the front axle support box. Intermediate attachments are not required, but the attachment fasteners should be sized to handle the unexpected loads. See below for the force direction to be dealt with.

Post Support

This is usually a cross bar(s) fabricated as an integral part of the sub frame, but may be bolted to the sub frame with properly sized fasteners. See below for the force direction to be dealt with.



Post

The posts often double as reservoirs for the hydraulic fluid and should be sized accordingly. Some may desire a detachable loader and that capability will need to be accommodated with the fabrication of the posts and the method of attaching them to the post support. See below for the force direction to be dealt with.

Bracing

This part of the structure may be optional depending on the post and post support construction, but there is some serious math involved to make it safe. Improper design and/or fabrication will result in catastrophic failure at the most inopportune time and with a load that you don't really want to hit the ground hard. After that, Murphy takes over.

The bracing struts should be fastened to the post within a few inches of the top and to the front axle box or the front of the sub frame. Service access to the engine bay will have to be taken into account when making and attaching the braces.

Loader Arms or Boom

Commercial loader arms are generally 1/8" steel box sections. Some are tapered from small at the ends to tall at the break in the arms. Others use square (2x2) tubing or rectangular (2x3) tubing. Many home builts use rectangular (2X4) tubing. Anticipated loads are the governing factor. Figure the heaviest load you plan on lifting, then triple it for choosing the the section for the arms. See below for the force direction to be dealt with.




Boom Cross Tube

This piece should be at least square and as large as will fit to the arms or optionally rectangular with the smaller dimension the same as the arm material it mates to. Its primary purpose is to prevent the racking of the arms from asymmetric loads on/in the bucket. Its secondary purpose is to provide a surface for the hydraulic lines that go from one side to the other of the boom to be secured.

If a single dump cylinder is used for the bucket, it also provides a stronger attaching point for the base end of that cylinder and an easier fabrication of mounting brackets than a round section.

The position of the cross tube on the arms should be in the top third of the lower part of the arm. Care needs to be taken to accommodate hood opening when the engine isn't running, and hood clearance when raising the arms. Make a habit of parking the loader bucket in the full dump position, and maybe on a block of wood to facilitate opening the hood.

Forces - General Direction

Sub frame - The front of the sub frame deals with force in all 4 directions. The heaviest is vertical down when lifting a fully loaded bucket since it is also lifting the rear of the tractor as a counterweight at the same time. The lightest is vertical up when lifting the front wheels. Horizontal front and back deal with entering a pile of dirt and back blading with the bucket.

The rear of the sub frame also deals with 4 forces. The vertical up is not as extreme as the front vertical down connection since it only has to deal with tractor and counterweight. The vertical down component is almost nonexistent since the empty bucket and that part of the arm assembly ahead of the front sub frame attachment acts as a counterweight for the mass of the loader which is behind that attachment. When lifting the front tires, there is more downforce on this connection, but it relatively light in comparison to the up force. Horizontal front and back forces are shared with and essentially the same as for the front attachment.

The reason for connecting the sub frame directly to the axle took me a while to learn. When pushing into a pile of dirt, at some point the bucket stops. With enough traction and some flex in the tractor frame, the rear wheels may not stop until after the bucket stops moving. The result will eventually be a broken frame.

Post Support - Again 4 forces with the major force being vertical up when lifting, a minor vertical down when lifting the front wheels and the full horizontal front and back that the sub frame has to deal with.

Post - If no bracing is used, the torque load on the post bottom connection gets positively scary. A 500 lb load in the bucket translates into something on the order of 3000 ft. lb. of torque load to be shared by the 2 post connections. With bracing, the triangle keeps everything stable and the hydraulic cylinder, in conjunction with the arm pin and post support, supplies a bending force to the post.

Bracing - The force is longitudinal and in compression or tension depending on if the bucket is lifting a load or pushing the front of the tractor up off the ground.

Loader Arms or Boom - The post pin end is subjected to a compound force. The cylinder is trying to push the arm away from the post and push it up at the same time or pull it closer and down. The bucket driving into dirt is trying to push that connection up and back at the same time, or down and back when back blading. The bucket end gets just as complicated with lifting/pushing or downforce and pushing/pulling. The connection of the 2 arm pieces should be reinforced since cylinder up and payload down forces act through this break in the arm.
Unexpected Loads - Impact loads from hitting immovable objects at speed are a given. Size all fasteners accordingly and include the effect on the strength of all connections, be they welded or bolted.

A full length sub frame with the bracing attached to it is a complete entity by itself. With adequate counterweight placed on the rear of the sub frame, it will be able to max out the hydraulics on a lift without the benefit of being attached to a tractor except hydraulically. This places minimal load on the tractor frame when it is attached, but the front axle pivot, spindles and tires in particular are subject to loads beyond the manufacturers design when it is attached to a tractor. The weight being carried by the rear axle for counterweighting purposes and the increased torque load on the rear axle that come with that weight and working the machine can easily overload the capabilities of some transmissions, rear ends and transaxles.

The manufacturer also limits their own loaders capability to match the design parameters that they use for their tractors. Home builders are not under the same constraints. I see many home built FELs on this forum that have the hydraulic capability of lifting well over 1500 lb. Fortunately, few of them have enough tractor supporting them to achieve anywhere near that number. The penalties include, but are not restricted to, broken spindles and broken frames. I've done both.

This little treatise took me over 5 hours to this point. It covers one major part of your design work. As you mentioned, the second major part involves mounting brackets and, along with fine tuning your design drawings, has to be left to the fabricator and the particular tractor that he chooses. The third major part involves selection of the hydraulic components and their associated plumbing and installation. This last is the most expensive part of this type of project, and the first part, at least the components, that should be purchased after working the drawings to satisfaction. The cost of the hoses and fittings alone will make a very large hole in the cost of the steel for the entire build if the steel is purchased new.

[169kw]

Sent you a PM.