PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Ever swap Original spindles for 3/4" ones?
Thinking of swapping out the 7/8-inch spindles for more common 3/4-inch versions so that I can use bearings in the wheels instead of bushings.
I located a heavy duty set on the 'bay and I'm thinking of swapping out the ones on the puller Original. We sometimes find the front end up in the air and I'm always mindful to let up on the throttle and let the front end slowly come down but, I'm afraid that someday, I'll have a brain-fart and forget. Don't want to break one! the new set has additional bracing and is 3/4", so I could use the set of tri-ribs that I have. If anyone else might be interested on how I do this swap, I'll include some pics and info. We'll both find out if it's doable. Ever wondered what it would take?
__________________
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Good question. But the O s steering knuckles are heavier 7/8 verses3/4. But I dont think the knuckles would work without some kind if sleeve to make up the difference in diameter.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
You are correct MM.
But, it's much easier to make something bigger than it is to make it smaller. THAT takes machinery!
__________________
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Could you put a sleeve or bushing over the 7/8" spindle and use 1" ID bearing wheels?
__________________
2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
I've done that before, just get some 7/8 od to 3/4 id bushings . Loctite them in. tractor pullers like to use original axles. most stock rules state you need to run a stock front axle. since the original axle is straighter , add the NF spindles and you get a nice drop or rake to the front end. also all the fancy aluminum rims are based on 3/4 in spindle.
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I got one side fabbed-up and I think I know how I'm going to do it. I have a set of heavier spindles than the Original ones, but I think they came off of an Economy, or something like that. They've got some additional bracing on the bend.
I'll be posting some photos of what I did to make them work. Really not a lot of work to make it happen. I used a set of bushings to make up the difference in the axle and I'm working out the bearing options now. I can order some thrust bearings for between the spindles and the axle, but right now I've got some bronze bearing surface in there. I have plenty of spindle left to put a bearing in there and I may do that just to make it bullet-proof. Not sure how fast the bronze would wear. I'll be working on it a little in the next few days, but hopefully when it's done, it'll work better, be stronger and look good doing it.
__________________
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Okay, I think I've got it settled. I took a couple of bushings, just like dvog mentioned and bushed the spindle so that it fit in the 7/8" axle. Because the bushing only had a small lip on it, I also included a bronze "bearing under that. I included some larger washers so that the axle would ride on them instead of the small lip of the bushing. I figured that it would wear way to quickly with such a small bearing surface.
I put everything together and I'm using 3/4" collars to hold the wheels and spindles on. I've not cut any stubs because if the bronze bearing doesn't hold up, I'll go with a thrust bearing. Then I'll need the additional spindle length. I can ALWAYS make 'em shorter! I have yet to paint the wheels so, I've not greased everything yet. The spindles didn't have a steering arm, so I needed to weld one onto the one side so that I could attach my drag link from the steering column. While I had the welder out, I welded up the larger holes for the tie rods and drilled new ones since my steering rod wasn't long enough to reach the original location of the holes on the new spindles. A little bit of paint later, and it looks like we may be onto something. It sure does have a more aggressive stance to it also! Here are the spindles I got off of the 'bay for $12. I think they're Economy or something like that. Here you can see the bottom bushing for the axle and the additional bronze bearing that I hope the spindle will ride on. The silver washers are the same size I.D. as the lip of the bushing so they make up for the difference of the bushing lip and give the axle something more to rest upon. I needed to drill some new holes for the tie rods and the original holes were much larger anyways. I just welded them shut. I used a collar on the axle and the wheels since the spindle wasn't drilled for bolts. It originally had "E" clips for the upper (axle) side. You can see the steering arm that I welded on. It was from an old JD engine cradle from a 12hp engine that I got one time. Worked great! Here's what the ol' girl looks like now! I think the stance is MUCH more aggressive! Wonder if they ever thought one of these ol' Originals would ever be set up like this? Here's what she looked like before.
__________________
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Nice job! Looks good!
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Nice!!
|
|
|
Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC
All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.
Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.