Drive Shaft Conversion

Sam Mac · #1 06-18-2013, 09:40 AM

Made up a drive shaft for FrankF3 for his 1572 from a 2000 series drive shaft. Pics of it installed. Frank is doing the testing. He should be able to give it a good workout with his tiller. If it works as well as I think it will it makes a nice replacement for the rag joints.

hhc70 · #2 06-18-2013, 10:09 AM

Are these better than the cyclops series CV joints? I have an 1863/4 driveline waiting for a rainy day to go into my 1572.

Leadslingingdaddy · #3 06-18-2013, 10:51 AM

As soon as I get that driveshaft to you I guess you can have an answer tot hat question!!! dooooh...... been busy man!!

Sam Mac · #4 06-18-2013, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hhc70

Are these better than the cyclops series CV joints? I have an 1863/4 driveline waiting for a rainy day to go into my 1572.

I think less to go wrong with them. They don't need to be greased. Never seen one fail. Not sure if the 1863 shaft will fit as it is but I plan on taking a look to find out.

ACecil · #5 06-18-2013, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Made up a drive shaft for FrankF3 for his 1572 from a 2000 series drive shaft. Pics of it installed. Frank is doing the testing. He should be able to give it a good workout with his tiller. If it works as well as I think it will it makes a nice replacement for the rag joints.

That's some nice work, Sam!

hhc70 · #6 06-18-2013, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Not sure if the 1863 shaft will fit as it is but I plan on taking a look to find out.

The rumour is that the 1863 shaft with a 1782/2182 engine adapter and a cyclops super pump adapter, becomes a bolt in assembly. The pump input shaft needs to be tapped, but everything else is ready to go.

Sam Mac · #7 06-18-2013, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hhc70

The rumour is that the 1863 shaft with a 1782/2182 engine adapter and a cyclops super pump adapter, becomes a bolt in assembly. The pump input shaft needs to be tapped, but everything else is ready to go.

I have a 1772 sitting in my shop that I can use to see if this will play. I have the crank adapter and a pump adapter. When you get a second see if you can get me an overall length of the shaft with the CV joints on it compressed to it's shortest length. As near as I can tell the space between the flanges of the adapters is 20.625"

FrankF3 · #8 06-18-2013, 10:26 PM

What Sam has worked up for this replacement shaft should make for a trouble-free design. Once all this rain stops, I plan to hook up some of my rear PTO implements to see how it handles the load. I don't expect any problems, I don't dare to try and drag the 48" tiller into the garden for a while lest the stack will be the only thing left showing. I think it's time to take out the bushhog.

The hardest part of the shaft install was getting the pump shaft drilled and tapped. I found that the shaft varied in hardness where the cobalt drill started out going right along into the shaft, then the next minute the progress virtually stopped. I had to dig out the carbide drill bits. After a short time, it started drilling easy again. I was lucky enough to order a pump adapter, bolt and belville washer from my cub dealer. I measured how far the bolt protruded through the pump adapter, subtracted the thickness of the belville washer to get the reach of the bolt when installed, then added to the depth of the drilled hole in the pump shaft by the amount of taper on the 1/4-20 tap to make sure the hole was threaded deep enough to accept the bolt. Although I could have tried to use a bottoming tap to skip the last step.

ken6x6 · #9 06-19-2013, 04:52 PM

im going to be drilling and taping my pump soon for Sam's drive shaft. i see its a 1/4 20 bolt size. what length bolt did you use?

Sam Mac · #10 06-19-2013, 09:40 PM

Guys
Just so you know I’m not trying to become a drive shaft supplier. My goal is to offer a viable solution to the rag joint issues that the older Cubs have. I like both the CV style that the Cyclops have and the 2000 series shafts. Problem with the CV type is they are made to fit specific engine setups if you can find one that works with your power train then it is a good choice. The 2000 series stuff is also designed to be length specific but they can be re-worked without too much trouble. That said I can supply the adapters for the pump that are NLA from Cub and I can also supply the adapter for the Kubota that is also NLA from Cub. I’ll do a how to make your own drive shaft from a 2000 series so that you guys can make your own. It’s not a big deal to do but it requires some work in a lathe and some welding. I have both of these done locally by a good machine shop and a good welder. I’m only trying to help you guys keep the “Oldies But Goodies” running, this is not a for profit venture. If you doubt that ask Frank if I have charged him for the shaft yet and he will tell you that I want him to run it and run it hard to test it first, only after we know it works would I expect him to pay for it and then only what it has cost me. Frank just want to say thanks for being the test pilot on this mission. I normally prefer to do the test work on my own but in this case I just didn’t have a tractor to do it with. Ken I have one all cut and ready to be welded but until Frank runs the crap out of his I am going to wait.