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  #1  
Old 07-30-2013, 05:45 PM
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Default Engine plans

I'm thinking after the Sept 14th pull, I'm going to pull the motor and give it some goodies. Steel flywheel, cam, another .010 off the head, billet connecting rod .010 undersized. Bore .030 over, and new valve springs. Port and polish intake and exhaust. Bosch super coil and balanced crank. Anyone got any thoughts or suggestion what I should put in the rear?
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:11 PM
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Why are you boring it .030 over?
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:18 PM
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Still on the stock bore and it needs it
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:34 PM
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Got it! By in the rear I assume you mean in the trans? Or are you talking about axles and diff?
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:40 PM
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.010 is all it would probably need. there's no extra by going .030

before you take it apart measure how far the piston is from coming to the top of the block. the piston is usually .015 to .017 below the top of the block. take that amount off the top of the block so the piston comes flush to the top. give it a 3 angle valve job. under cut the head of the valve so its a nail head style . search around for a LP head. put an adjustable cam gear on the cam then advance the cam timing about 8 to 10 degrees. advance the ign timing 4 to 5 degrees. send the block out and have it cryo'd. 300 below does good work, put a torque plate on it when you bore.

personally unless you are going to take the governor off keep your old wore out valve springs.
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Old 07-30-2013, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by dvogtvpe View Post
.010 is all it would probably need. there's no extra by going .030

before you take it apart measure how far the piston is from coming to the top of the block. the piston is usually .015 to .017 below the top of the block. take that amount off the top of the block so the piston comes flush to the top. give it a 3 angle valve job. under cut the head of the valve so its a nail head style . search around for a LP head. put an adjustable cam gear on the cam then advance the cam timing about 8 to 10 degrees. advance the ign timing 4 to 5 degrees. send the block out and have it cryo'd. 300 below does good work, put a torque plate on it when you bore.

personally unless you are going to take the governor off keep your old wore out valve springs.
And the reason you are telling the Kohler Face Book Hero this would be?
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:03 PM
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And the reason you are telling the Kohler Face Book Hero this would be?
You got a problem?
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dvogtvpe View Post
.010 is all it would probably need. there's no extra by going .030

before you take it apart measure how far the piston is from coming to the top of the block. the piston is usually .015 to .017 below the top of the block. take that amount off the top of the block so the piston comes flush to the top. give it a 3 angle valve job. under cut the head of the valve so its a nail head style . search around for a LP head. put an adjustable cam gear on the cam then advance the cam timing about 8 to 10 degrees. advance the ign timing 4 to 5 degrees. send the block out and have it cryo'd. 300 below does good work, put a torque plate on it when you bore.

personally unless you are going to take the governor off keep your old wore out valve springs.
Thanks for the help
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:07 PM
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sorry Sam, forgot who I was talking to
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by dvogtvpe View Post
.010 is all it would probably need. there's no extra by going .030

before you take it apart measure how far the piston is from coming to the top of the block. the piston is usually .015 to .017 below the top of the block. take that amount off the top of the block so the piston comes flush to the top. give it a 3 angle valve job. under cut the head of the valve so its a nail head style . search around for a LP head. put an adjustable cam gear on the cam then advance the cam timing about 8 to 10 degrees. advance the ign timing 4 to 5 degrees. send the block out and have it cryo'd. 300 below does good work, put a torque plate on it when you bore.

personally unless you are going to take the governor off keep your old wore out valve springs.

I wanted to do what brian miller did with the .010 under crank he said something about getting a .020 pop out
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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