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#1
09-09-2015, 07:28 PM
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New 1811 Frame Twisted
       I just brought this home to replace a 1512 I just sold. It has only 711 hours on it. The 1512 had a bazillion hours on it but I probably should have kept it. I didn't notice how twisted the frame on this 1811 was when I bought it. It has a bad bearing on the 44" deck (center) because the grease zirk is plugged. The fluids are clean and I got the push blade with it. It runs good but there is fuel leaking slightly from the carb float bowl. The throttle/governor springs must be in the wrong holes because the throttle isn't right. Any advice on measuring and straightening the frame? Once I can verify it is tweaked, my plan is to use a come-a-long and a couple of oak trees. I'll pull the right rear while the front left is anchored. The tractor in the rear is an 1864. PeterJ 
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#2
09-09-2015, 07:37 PM
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Before you get crazy, loosen the six bolts that hold the transmission in the frame. You would be surprised how flexible a Cub frame is. Ask me how I know.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL
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#4
09-09-2015, 08:11 PM
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I don't have a pic but I had a 1772 on my lift table and noticed that it was twisted to the muffler side and I was positive that the frame was twisted. I loosened up the bolts that hold the rear in the frame, jacked up the muffler side and re-tightened the rear-end bolts problem solved. On the 82 and 72 series Cubs the rear-end is a stressed member. That's one of the reasons they bust the aluminum rears at the front mounting points. As absurd as it sounds just the weight of the muffler on the Kubota powered tractors because it hangs off the right side is enough to cause this after enough time with loose bolts in the rear. The Supers are the worst because they have longer frames.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL
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#5
09-09-2015, 08:25 PM
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When you get it straightened out you can bolt in the rear plate off a cyclops and it will really stiffen it up.
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Cub Cadet 1811 undergoing restoration Cub Cadet 1862 waiting for paint Cub Cadet 1050 finally got all the parts bought so next in line behind the 1811 for restoration Allis Chalmers 416 Massey Ferguson MF-8 Brinly 10"plow Soil Mover garden tractor dirt scraper Taking donations for a new bigger garage to hold them all 
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#6
09-09-2015, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965
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#7
09-09-2015, 10:58 PM
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Sam,
I shouldn't have used the word, "twisted". Maybe this is better: I think the left side of the frame is pulled back. The 1512 I had was really loose compared to this 1811. The hydro on the 1811 is pretty noisy. Maybe the rear end is a little tweaked? Another symptom is that when the brake is pressed all the way to the foot board, the hydro lever isn't centered, it is slightly in reverse. I still plan to replace the fluid and filter. I spent the night loosening and lubing tensioner pulleys on the deck and hanger. RR1862CC, I need the plate to mount bagger. I agree, it is a good add-on. Thanks for sharing the insight. I already bought one on eBay. PeterJ
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#8
09-09-2015, 11:39 PM
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Looking at the pics I can see how you would think it has diamond frame damage, however I'm more inclined to think it's a bent dash and misaligned grille housing. The amount of frame damage it would take to make it look that bad would probably rip the bolts out of the rear end housing. You could mesure it diagonally just to be sure.
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149 with kwik-way loader,1772,two 1782 super smokers, 982 SGT w 54" haban blade,60" haban deck, 50in deck cat 0 3 point, brinly cat 0: blade, plow(3), disc.123,hydro lift. 61"O" Brinly single row planter,brinly cultivator,#2 trailer,brinly 10 inch plow,3 42 inch blades,Model #1 Tiller with extenstions,haban sickle mo. 106w/ags and hydro lift. 
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#9
09-10-2015, 08:58 PM
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I put a square to the frame this morning before work. The left side is about 5/32" forward of the right side. That's exactly opposite of what I thought I'd find. The 1864 reads square at the same points.
I'll square everything up when the rear plate arrives, or I'll just steal the one off of the 1864. It'll be interesting to see if moving the frame changes the brake centering. PeterJ
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#10
09-13-2015, 10:16 AM
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Some advice needed: I suspect the six bolts are in there with locktite. I loosened all of them a 3/4 to 1 1/2 turns and the frame didn't budge. I've turned a lot of wrenches in my day and I didn't like the feeling I was getting from the bolts, especially the four in the differential housing. They did tighten down again.
I was thinking someone had loosened them before and then over tightened them. Should I be using the impact to loosen them? If you use heat, how long do you apply heat and where do you apply the heat. Thanks! PeterJ
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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