FWD pedal is slow to return to neutral

[Timbo114]

2011 GT2100
Hydro BDU-10
Meticulously maintained (by me, I'm 60 and well mechanically inclined)
299 hours
Condition is 9.85 / 10
48" Fab deck w/ mulch kit
Mows 1 acre on a slow grade - no winter work.

I just changed the Hydro fluid and filter
- CC 737-3025 Hydraulic Transmission Fluid @$5.95 Qt
- CC 923-3014 Filter @$11.
Purchased at local dealer who sold my the tractor (known the owner for over 20 years, highly reputable family business).

737-3025 fluid confirmed to be fine for my 2100.

I have a 2000 Series service manual - followed fluid change procedure 100%.

Here's my issue ..

FWD pedal is slow to return to neutral when I lift my foot, and tractor continues to roll fwd slowly on flat surface (road test on my street).
Reverse pedal function is 100%.
I used to get the "whiplash" brake if I lift off each pedal abruptly ...
I still get this in reverse, but it only happens in FWD AFTER I immediately engage and disengage the FWD pedal after lifting off REV.
I also get my old "whiplash" brake in FWD but only once , and immediately after lifting off REV.
Now if I continue driving forward, on and off the pedal ... THIS is when the FWD pedal is very slow to return to neutral when I lift my foot off.
And my old "whiplash" brake does not happen after the 1st let off during my on/off FWD pedal testing.

What am I missing?

This is NOT my 1st fluid / filter change - this has never happened before.

Thanks for any advice.

[Ozcub]

Great to read how you look after your Cub but you can do as good a job a little bit cheaper
Your BDU10 can use regular automotive oil instead of the more pricey oil you used , if you want longevity you can use Full synthetic and this will double the oil change frequencies . get a manual on the Hydro
There should be a hydraulic strut connected to the foot pedal check that it has not come adrift and/or is working correctly
Oz

[ironman]

Originally Posted by Timbo114

Here's my issue ..

FWD pedal is slow to return to neutral when I lift my foot, and tractor continues to roll fwd slowly on flat surface (road test on my street).
Reverse pedal function is 100%.
I used to get the "whiplash" brake if I lift off each pedal abruptly ...
I still get this in reverse, but it only happens in FWD AFTER I immediately engage and disengage the FWD pedal after lifting off REV.
I also get my old "whiplash" brake in FWD but only once , and immediately after lifting off REV.
Now if I continue driving forward, on and off the pedal ... THIS is when the FWD pedal is very slow to return to neutral when I lift my foot off.
And my old "whiplash" brake does not happen after the 1st let off during my on/off FWD pedal testing.

What am I missing?

Could it be coincidence that this started with your fluid change?
You haven't mentioned whether you've done the obvious:
i.e. checked for loose, missing, binding, broken parts in the foot control linkages.
I have seen this condition in tractors (not Cubs) where a buildup of dried grass clippings and dirt were impairing full movement of the linkages. Blowing it out with compressed air fixed that.
I also seem to remember a similar thread here where the culprit turned out to be worn plastic bushings on the foot control rods.

[Timbo114]

I don't see a gas strut in the linkage set up - only mechanical rods and brackets.
All linkage is clean as a whistle, nothing bent ... had the wife working the pedals so I could get a real good look.
All springs look good, lubed all pivot points.

I just put it up on jackstands and did the purge cycle again.
Road tested again... no change - FWD pedal slow to return.

BUT I DID notice that if I stay away from full speed on the FWD pedal, it DOES return as normal, and my dear old brake whiplash is present.

So .... only fully depressing the FWD yields the slow return.

[Ozcub]

The gas strut is on right hand side (facing front) of steering shaft and is mounted to rear area of engine and onto part of the pedal linkage , it acts like a damper
Oz

[apex944]

> if you want longevity you can use Full synthetic and this will double the oil change frequencies .

Why is that?
If the oil is pulling dirt out of the system, (which it should) change intervals should not be reduced.

Now if the oil is breaking down while it's still clean/clear then I agree that the interval can be extended. But oil and a filter are so cheap so why not just do it.

[Ozcub]

Get a Hydro- Gear BDU 10 manual it will explain all
Oz
Download for free from Hydro-Gear

[Oak]

That is not the correct oil for your hydro but I don't think that would cause your issue. Your machine came with the high dollar "Synthetic Blend Drive System Fluid Plus" from the factory and that is the recommended replacement. I run Rotella 15w-40 in my 3000 machines without any issues.

Have you looked at all the bushings and linkages in the drive pedal system? I don't own any 2000 series machines but I know the 3000 series have a bunch of cheap plastic bushings that need to be replaced pretty often.