Driveshaft help

[john hall]

Ordered some parts for a 782 I am piecing back together. Included was supposed to be the entire driveline from engine to pump--missing on the machine I am working on. Isn't there supposed to be a cast piece with a ball in it on the pump? I appear to be missing it from the order.

[Jeff in Pa]

Like this?
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...9&postcount=28

[john hall]

I was afraid it was missing. What's up with the home made one in that link? I had plans to pull the shaft out of the pump and turn down the damage and sleeve the mating part, now that I realize its a ball, I may have to put a thin sleeve on the pump shaft.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by john hall

I was afraid it was missing. What's up with the home made one in that link? I had plans to pull the shaft out of the pump and turn down the damage and sleeve the mating part, now that I realize its a ball, I may have to put a thin sleeve on the pump shaft.

The "homemade" one is longer to provide more stability on a worn shaft. The cast one was what I based my measurements on for when I welded and machined the new one.

[ol'George]

Let me stick my big nose in here:
John you can turn the shaft down just enough to square it, and make a larger bastard O.D. sleeve, an jeff can make a oversize bore, home made "T" driver to fit the bastard sleeve.
The ball bushing is in a larger counter bore of the home made "T" driver for the driveshaft end.
Personally I would just get a good used hydro and not go to the trouble of R&R of the hydro.
After you buy seals/ gasket you are going to have 1/2 the price or more of the good used hydro price.
The hydro shaft is hardened and I'm betting only case hardened, your gonna loose that.
OR:
you can go undersize on the shaft and Jeff can make you a undersize bore, home made "T" driver to fit it.
But it's your call.
now I'll be quiet.

[john hall]

Makes sense, I assume you moved the ball further down the shaft so it was on un-worn material? I don't know if that is possible on the pump I have, its chewed up pretty bad. Before I open it up I'll measure it again to get an idea of how much undersize/taper I am dealing with. I think it was like .015-.02" under. Still think what you made is a great idea for pumps that are just dealing with wear. Lets just say this one had one bolt and the shaft holding the rear under the machine, till the flex discs gave up---no more shaft, hydraulic lines or oil filter. I never cease to amaze myself at some of the problems I "inherit".

[Shrewcub]

I'm with George! John, send Jeff a pm and tell him what you need. He does great work!

[john hall]

Thanks George, hydros around here just aren't that plentiful or cheap. I never could find a ported one after several months of looking. I hope Jeff doesn't mind but I'll be considering copying his repair method, I'm a machinist myself. I'm not interested in making parts for others, just don't have the time, I just do my own stuff. I hate this part got overlooked when the salvage yard pulled the driveline. I should have one in a 682 I can steal. That machine will need a new engine and is WAY down the project list.

[ol'George]

Evil pray is your friend on hydro's
J deere dealers have a better price on seals and hydro gasket, cub is higher.
I have Deere numbers if you need.
If you need some ball bushings, let me know, I bought a bag of them @ a good price.
Figger $15 total for a pair shipped, in a padded usps envelope.
They are OEM USA supplier not china.
luck what ever you decide.

[john hall]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Evil pray is your friend on hydro's
J deere dealers have a better price on seals and hydro gasket, cub is higher.
I have Deere numbers if you need.
If you need some ball bushings, let me know, I bought a bag of them @ a good price.
Figger $15 total for a pair shipped, in a padded usps envelope.
They are OEM USA supplier not china.
luck what ever you decide.

I'll certainly keep you in mind. Is the ball at the back the same as the one up front? I thought I remembered someone here posting a long time ago about buying the balls separate. I'll try to look at my bill to see how much the parts ran, didn't seem too bad actually. I don't get my Cadet stuff local, got a fellow in the Midwest I get everything from, much cheaper. I've got to get the rear end back together first, then I'll get brave/crazy/stupid enough to open the hydro. At this point, I have nothing to lose but time.