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  #1  
Old 04-25-2016, 11:57 AM
vinyl72 vinyl72 is offline
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Default 2135 - intermittent stalling

I have a 2135 with an intermittent stalling problem. It's starts fine, as it always has. Once it's been running for anywhere from 5 minutes to 20 minutes, it sputters like it's running out of gas, then shuts off. Some of the times, I've been able to immediately restart with full choke for about 15 seconds. Other times it just won't restart, it keeps cranking like it's not getting fuel.
I've checked the hole in the gas cap, checked the flow to the fuel filter, changed the fuel filter, added scan of seafoam.
I'm seeing seepage when I remove the air filter, but I think that's alway been there.
Does this sound like a fuel pump, or the carb, or???
Has anyone else run into this?
I did fill it up with a higher octane than usual could this contribute?
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  #2  
Old 04-25-2016, 03:37 PM
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dvogtvpe dvogtvpe is offline
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first I'd verify if its fuel or spark. the octane wouldn't hurt it, fuel pumps usually work or they don't. dirt plugging something or loss of spark seam to follow your problem. next time it dies take a plug out and check for spark, if it does pull the fuel line from the pump to the carb and check for fuel pumping out. if that's ok it is probably the anti back fire valve on the carb or dirt in the carb
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  #3  
Old 04-29-2016, 03:38 PM
vinyl72 vinyl72 is offline
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Default Coil?

A repair shop is saying the coil, but they are telling me that it's a huge job. They are saying that thy basically have to pull the motor to get to the coil itself. Does that sound correct?
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Old 04-29-2016, 04:11 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Depending on the age of the 2135, there could be a Kohler CH12.5 or CH13 in it.

The ignition coils are located underneath the Flywheel. Thus, to change one out, the engine will have to be removed, the tins removed, then the flywheel, to get to the coils. YUP, there is going to be some time involved changing them.
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Old 04-29-2016, 04:29 PM
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olds45512 olds45512 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
the engine will have to be removed, the tins removed, then the flywheel, to get to the coils. YUP, there is going to be some time involved changing them.
i changed the ignition module in my neighbors 2135 with a ch12.5 without pulling the engine, once the blower housing is unbolted it will move back far enough to do the work. from start to finish i had about 30 minutes in it.
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  #6  
Old 04-29-2016, 05:32 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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I have never done one on this model of Kohler before. But I would pull the engine and remove the shrouds. Clean & blow out the cooling fins and degrease the engine as necessary. After the engine is all cleaned up, change the coil(s), inspect and replace any other part found bad, clean up the shrouds, and then reverse me steps. But, that is me, and how I would do it. I am sure there is a quicker way than my method.
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Old 04-29-2016, 05:45 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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I love "The Repair Shop It's a huge job". Hell I can do one of those in 5-6 hours and I'm old and slow and that includes time out for a cocktail a few smoke breaks. Do it your self or find another shop. That's with pulling the engine, cleaning everything, replacing the coil and putting it back together. I also clean and grease the steering that is almost impossible to get at on a 2000 series with the engine in the frame.
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Old 06-10-2016, 09:42 PM
Packard V8 Packard V8 is offline
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Little late on this one, but BTDTNA. It most likely ain't the coil, cause I spent the money for a new one. It most likely ain't the fuel pump or the carb. What those exact symptoms were on my 2135 was trash in the tank.

That huge filler and years on less than perfect fuel containers and transfer inevitably gathers in some bugs, small leaves, general detritus. It settles to the bottom and restricts fuel flow to the carb. Run hard for long enough and restriction exceeds demand and starvation occurs.

Pull the fenders, drain and clean the tank and it's good to go again.

jack vines
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  #9  
Old 05-19-2017, 01:07 AM
oneart6478 oneart6478 is offline
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Angry 1440 GREAT CONDITION, stalls when stopping

Quote:
Originally Posted by vinyl72 View Post
I have a 2135 with an intermittent stalling problem. It's starts fine, as it always has. Once it's been running for anywhere from 5 minutes to 20 minutes, it sputters like it's running out of gas, then shuts off. Some of the times, I've been able to immediately restart with full choke for about 15 seconds. Other times it just won't restart, it keeps cranking like it's not getting fuel.
I've checked the hole in the gas cap, checked the flow to the fuel filter, changed the fuel filter, added scan of seafoam.
I'm seeing seepage when I remove the air filter, but I think that's alway been there.
Does this sound like a fuel pump, or the carb, or???
Has anyone else run into this?
I did fill it up with a higher octane than usual could this contribute?
My 1440 is doing exactly the same thing but my stalling issue does not have a time table attached to it like yours, mine only stalls when I stop hard in forward or reverse, and, as you stated, sometimes I can recover it with a choke pull but sometimes not. Then the engine may or may not start on the next try, my 1440 starts when it wants to.!!!! Any suggestions? I have blown out the fuel lines with the line at the fuel pump disconnected and put inside of a coffee filter with a hose clamp on it so I could see if any trash was in the line. New fuel pump, cleaned carb, changed fuel filter... nothing seems to be working
dvogtvpe, you mention "the anti back fire valve on the carb" where is that located?
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  #10  
Old 05-19-2017, 10:35 AM
West Valley G West Valley G is offline
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Was having the exact problem a while back and Sam encouraged me to pull the fuel tank clean it all out. I basically did a complete cleaning of all things from tank to carb, replacing fuel lines and filter. Problem was solved and up and running well. This was on my 1862.

Ken
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