1650 with Possible bad Solenoid?

[cleon001]

I have a 1650 that has been running fine. When I tried to start it today it started to turn over and then just stopped, nothing and then a clicking sound when I turn the key. I checked all the wires everything is hooked up as designed to the ignition coil and over the the points and spark plug. The battery is 100% charged. I proceeded to try check the solenoid by turning the key to run and putting a screw driver across the leads of the solenoid. All I get is a little spark and a faint click sound. Does this mean the solenoid is bad and needs to be replaced or is this an indication of something else? Any help and guidance is appreciated.

Thanks

Cleon

[CHWNY]

Sounds like the solenoid! TEST: take a of set of jumper cables use one set of clamps and jump out the solenoid (Batt. to starter) wires, If it cranks than bad solenoid NO crank jump out wires.

[ol'George]

If you connect the 2 LARGE terminals together with a screwdriver you are in essence eliminating the sol. from the circuit.
If it does not turn over, either you have a bad connection/ground or the starter is bad.
I would bet a loose/corroded connection.
Start @ the battery and check first the ground @ BOTH ends then the + along it's way to the starter through the solenoid.

[cub1200puller]

One of my 1650s done that and it was a bad ground at the battery. I cleaned the cable and where it bolted to the frame. If it dosnt get a good ground the breaker inside the solenoid will not connect and send the juice to the starter. Mine wouldnt do anything butt throw a little spark when i shorted the posts out. Thaught it was the starter at first. So clean the grounds real good and try that first.

[R Bedell]

I see possible three conditions here.

(A) You have a bad ground somewhere.
(B) You have a bad Starter Solenoid
(C) You have a bad Starter Drive (Bendix).

Test A:
With a VOM or DVM, check the resistance connection between the Battery Negative ( - ) terminal and the case (or body) of the starter solenoid. You should have near zero ohms resistance. If not, look for bad grounding connection (wire). If you do....then to test B.

Test B:
With the same meter, select VDC scale (say 20V). Place the black meter lead on the starter solenoid case or body,. and the red lead on the small solenoid terminal. Turn the key to "start" position and you should see 12V at the solenoid.. If not, then something in the start circuit has failed (safety switch, ignition switch, etc).

Test C:

If you have 12VDC at the solenoid and it still won't engage, then take the Meter and check the resistance of the solenoid coil itself. Meter on Ohms scale, check between solenoid case and the small terminal (wire removed from small terminal). You should see between 5-100 ohms. If not, the solenoid is TOAST (open coil).

Test D:

If all the above check out normal, then with the wires to the two large terminals removed, take the Meter on Ohms Scale, and check for resistance of these two terminals. Not engergized, you will have NO ohms (infinity). When turning the Ignition Switch to the start position and energizing the solenoid, there should be zero ohms resistance. If not, the solenoid is TOAST (bad contacts).

Check this out and advise.