New Rototiller!
 

I found a rotary tiller and gear drive for $150. It was a reply to a wanted ad on CL.:D He threw some paint bomb on it though. Over spray was in the little utility wagon we got it out of so he must of did it after I called. Now I need to fix up that mess on top of the original mess.:( I also need to find some info on it like what type and size belts and such. I found the manual on the site for it. Time to study up on it.:D tiller 1And see if I can get some extenders. He painted over the ID tag but looks like its a 1. Any tips on cleaning the tag off? Will wire brush ruin the original lettering on the tag? Or would some chemical be better to take the paint off? Here are the pictures.

Try mineral spirits or naptha...if he used really crappy paint, those will take it off. Otherwise, you're pretty much screwed. Any scraping, sanding, etc will also remove the lettering on the tag.

Nice find since it sounds like the paint is fresh, so hopefully it will come off easier like Matt said.

Congrats! You'll love how great of a job it will do.

Here's some info for you from our technical section of the site..

Belt chart
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=25

Wild Bill's awesome tiller guide!
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=12320

Thanks everybody!:beerchug:

I drilled the rivets out. Put it in a dish. I didnt have any mineral spirits or naptha on hand but did have some acetone. So I put a little in the dish and let the tag soak for 5 minutes or so. Then most of it cleaned off with by wiping with an acetoned soaked paper towel. I let is soak another 5 minutes. Wiped some more with a towel and got it all off. None of the original writing appears damaged at all. Now I will just keep it in a safe place until I clean up the rest of the tiller and rivet it back on.

Model 1 Serial 3019

Looks like a nice tiller, glade to hear and see the tag cleaned up nice. Definately a Series 1 due to the size ans number of tines. An extension in each end and a good cleaing and perhaps repaint properly will look good as new. Even better if you paint it the correct shade of off white. More I look at things i buy and peope just paint it white...gee whizz!!:bash2:

I'd rather see the wrong color paint than a rusted out mess on something I want. Paint is easier to fix than rust holes.

Amen to that .....I don't care about runs, color match , what ever .....
It beats the heck out of rust ...... I can always take paint off :biggrin2:

Great score on the tiller, Larry! :ThumbsUp:

Roto tiller
 

I was given recently a 129 cub cadet It needs complete restore. It come with a 1A U1111 6 tine roto tiller. I found a 3 gblade 42 " mower deck good shape off of a 105 cub cadet. my mule drive has some of the arms cut off. will the mower deck and roto yiller fit this machine. Hornets

Hornets,

The deck will fit if you use the correct undercarriage.
The rototiller will fit.

Great find Larry, you'll like it, alot!

Thanks Zippy!

Hornet, This operators manual may help you. Tells a lot including what you need and setup and operation. 1A tiller operators manual

Don't forget Bill's awesome guide!

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=12320

Don't forget to use the steel pulleys! The stamped steel ones on the mower mule drives are not meant to be used for tillers.

129 cub cadet
 

I was given a 129 a while back but needs the following parts. Hood and I guess3 point arms but the tiller has arms on it and a T, handle for adjustment of the tiller.I have the mule drive that came with the tractor.Would that work with the mower deck that I got from a 105 hydro. I also need the tiller mount and gear box. and a shroud that covers drive shaft between gas tank and engine. And grill with headlites. Thanks for your help. Hornets

Methos, I saw that but I dont understand why? Is it just a strength issue?




Hornet,
The narrow frame 105 mule drive is different then the wide 129 but the deck will work with both. The tiller mounts to the rear pto gearbox mount with those arm. The single sleeve hitch pin is what lifts it with a chain and a T handle bolt. There are 2 T bolts. One on the chain and other is to tighten the smaller tiller belt. I would post your wants in the wanted section of the site. You will get better results.

Larry

Larry the stamped steel pulleys will come apart under load. Tillers and thower/blowers both need to use the steel pulleys.

Snowthrower too? crap. I have used that for the past 3 winters with the stamped pulleys with no problems. Guess Im pushing my luck. :bigthink:

Actually I received the snowthrower with the tractor so I'm not sure how many other years it has ran it?

I've heard that you can get away with using one steel pulley on the left side of the mule drive. I've seen the steel pulleys listed for $85 each and the replacement bearings are $35 thru my local bearing supply house.

Honestly, I'd just use the stamped ones for the tiller and keep an eye on them. For someone like me that tills a garden at the beginning and end of each season, and uses a walk-behind (much narrower rows after stuff is planted) the stamped ones will last quite awhile. My previous tiller tractor, a 128, had the billet pulleys, but I had a really hard time finding them, and they were expensive.

And for the snowthrower, as long as it isn't die-cast aluminum, it should be fine. The OEM tiller pulley on the 2B tiller is stamped steel with a CI hub...

Mounted!
 

Today I mounted the tiller on my 147. I also drained the rear end and put some fresh oil in there. I think it was atf that came out? It was red. I also think it was low because I don't think I got that much out of it. In the 9ish years I have had it I never messed with it. Anyways the drive seems quieter and more responsive but that could just be me paying closer attention. I mounted the PTO and then for what ever reason(bored I think, lol) I wanted to take the lower pulley off so I messed with that and soaked it over night in pb blaster and still nothing but did get the setscrews loose. I finally took the whole mount off and mounted it upside down. The holes don't line up that way so I only used 2 diagonal from each other. Then with the gear box off but hanging by the pulley I was able to find a shaft that would fit in the bore inside the pulley and banged the gearbox out of the pulley. It worked good and I didn't damage the pulley because I had the main part on the gear box mount. So then I clean the shaft and it comes off and on easy now so in case I ever need too take it off, lol. So I mounted the pto again and put my old hitch on the back upside down as I figured that is what the holes are for and then tried to mount the tiller but it don't have enough room with the hitch so I took that back off.:bash2: Finally got the tiller mounted and then my 3 pt lift is non oem and I had to figure out how to make it work. I came up with something but Im going to have to do it differently because it hits the gear housing on the tiller when the tiller is lifted. It does come off the ground but not by much. Maybe 2". I welded the 3 pt stuff on years ago before I used the internet much and never had the shaft that goes in and never knew what went in there. I thought it was cool because it threads in and out so you could change the leverage/movement. I never really had an attachment but made some lower draw bar and a connecting threaded rod for it. I probably am going to grind it off and make my own shaft. I don't have the T height adjustment nut on the chains so I need to make one of those. Also not shown is the 3pt rocker mount. I also made that years ago and I did weld that on the frame too.:bash2: Another one of the if I knew then what I know now kinda thing. Someday I will probably grind that off and find a correct oem one. I took some pictures of it mounted but it don't show the goofyness of having a 26" tiller on the back of a wider tractor very well. These are my narrow tires, 23 x7.5x12. I don't even have my 10.5s on. I found a guy with tine extensions I just need to see how much he wants for them and get them. I also checked the 90 degree gear box oil and added some and searched around for grease zerks on the tiller but none of the bearings have any. I haven't bought the big PTO belt yet so I couldn't try it out. :( But did lower it and drag it around the yard a few laps, lol. :D Also it lifts a lot easier then I thought it would. I do have the helper spring. I was worried it was going to be hard to lift because my blower was before I added an extra heavy duty helper springs to it. I actually have to push it down now. I will show pictures of that setup probably sooner then I want too. I hate snow.

Larry

Nice looking tiller, Larry! :beerchug:

Larry, if you loosen that nut up it will allow the tiller to go deeper into the ground. Not sure if that will cure your problem all the way but it will get the tiller deeper. From what I could see it with that welded in there like that your going to have to get a new top casting and lifting pin.

Thanks Allen!

Methos, Im pretty sure it will go down far enough but I havent tested it. I could back up on some blocks to lift the rear and see how far down it goes. The problem I think is the height. I need to look around for some pictures and see how how they normally go. I have the nut all the way down. But I have that big nut/spacer under it that I could do differently.
I should be able to cut the nut welded to the top casting off with a cut off and grind it back down. Lifting pin! Thats what that is called. Thanks! :D I need to make one. I have 1" round stock laying around. Actually I have some 4140 I could use if I can drill it.

Larry,
Thanks for the shots of the tiller!
I have one but it has never been mounted or used by me. The pictures may help me at some point on that project too!
I agree that this site helps a LOT with the little details!
Regards,
Chris

Cool! If you need any specific shot I would be happy to help you! :beerchug:

Looking forward to your updates!

Me too. :biggrin2:

I actually never noticed but I do have one steel pulley.:D So that is cool and I am good there. I was also thinking, why would you need the steel pulley on the thrower/blower? My belt goes straight to the gearbox. Must be there is another style I haven't seen or you goofed?

Update on my lift problem with the home made lift hitting my tiller. Those plates welded in the threaded rod have 2 holes. The closer hole is hidden in my pictures above in the shadow of the washer. I had the bolt on the last hole in my picture. The first hole would almost work to hold the tiller pickup rod in but was tight so I drilled it out a little more so I could get the bolt in it. Basically I slide the pickup rod closer to the lift casting. I then cut the end off with the last hole out. It works good there. I also came up with another solution to my lift problem to make it work more like the original one would. Instead of cutting off the nut on my lift casting and making the 1" pin. I can just cut the head off a bolt that threads in it and drill a hole in it. It would work the same as the original style pin but will be length adjustable with the threads. The way I have it now is working but it is rigged and I don't like that.

I am really enjoying this hobby/toy/worker!:biggrin2:

Just to clarify...they should ALL be steel...the mower deck pulleys are stamped steel, and the tiller ones are billet steel.

The snowthrower must have a CI or steel pulley, because a die-cast aluminum one will explode and kill somebody.

ok, I meant I have one cast pulley on my mule drive. I also may have been confuse because I thought we were talking about the mule drives only. Not the pulleys on the gearbox, etc...

Took some pictures of my updated cut off and shortened lift and what I want to do to it. I also show the adjustability of it. You can change lift travel or amount of lifting leverage. There is also a picture of a bolt I want to cut the head off and drill the a hole in the shank to work more like OEM.

I also happen to stumble on a pulley I had laying around. Might be a good mule drive pulley. Its greasable with roller bearings and heavy cast. Grease zerk in bolt shank but missing.

ok I give up, every dang time I get a few different pictures uploaded I get the error 500 and have to start over. I will try later

ok I will try it again. Looks like I didnt loose the pictures. :beerchug: Here is the pulley I found.