2072 resto mod
 

What started out as a simple clean and polish has turned into a resto mod on my 2072. I say resto mod because I am not going for factory correct restoration and intend to do some mods. I plan to set the 2072 up for gardening and yard work but no mowing. Got the engine cleaned and repainted. I am going to do a quickie spray on the frame and fenders.
Here are some pictures of the progress.

Engine Pulled
http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/...justpulled.jpg

Frame cleaned up
http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/...frontframe.jpg

Some fresh paint on the engine
http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/...freshpaint.jpg
http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/...ustpainted.jpg
http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/...reshpaint2.jpg

Looks great!:beerchug:

Nice work. Looking forward to your progress.

That's a nice super . :beerchug:

Thanks Super! You have some nice looking supers also

Im down to 1 1872 ! Been a wild ride over these past 2 years . I've been thru 6 of them . :beer2:

rkeithley, Thanks for the reply. Basically I just wanted the engine clean and $5 bucks worth of rattle can high temp paint did the trick. I plan on fixing this tractor just to play with around the yard. Speaking of engine temps I am thinking about adding a temp gauge and oil gauge just for a good mod anybody got tips on doing this?

oil pressure gauge
 

I took out my hour meter and replaced it with an oil pressure gauge. On air cooled motors the oil temp is really what you are concerned with anyway. I put the hour meter under the hood next to the oil filter. After all we don't actually watch the meter while we are running the tractor do we and I never figured out why we had it on the panel instead of oil pressure or oil temp.? Here are the pictures of my gauge and the fitting that sends the pressure to the gauge as well as the hour meter.
BTW, as the temp rises the oil pressure will drop to a lower level. I do not know what this temp is but on a hot day it never goes below about 35psi.

dsmithjr, what other mods do you have planned for the resto?

Rudy, Thanks for the pictures that whats I'm looking at doing. My hour meter doesn't work even though there is power to it. I think Ill do the same and move mine under the hood and put the oil pressure there. It looks like you added a fitting at the filter to supply pressure to your gauge? I will have to check oil temp gauges to see how that can be set up and located on the dash.
Update on progress. Did more cleaning on the frame and some further dis assembly. Sprayed the fire wall black. Sprayed the rear axle black. Sanded and primer-ed a few spots on the frame. Sanded the battery tray and sprayed it with black rubberized undercoating on the battery side and just black on the bottom.Started working on the fenders bending out some dents. Took some pictures Ill upload later.

Dsmithjr,
I'm really enjoying all the ideas for the 2072 resto mod. Hope the ideas keep coming for ya!

Hey Don,
Looking forward to seeing some more great ideas for your 2072. Might have to use a couple for a 2072 I've got my eye on.........:beer2::ThumbsUp:

Pokey,
I wanted to add oil pressure and temp gauges. I am going to take the 3pt off my 2284 and install on the 2072. I have a parts tractor with a complete deck hydraulic lift cylinder,hoses and such and I thought I might be able to use part of those pieces to build a rear wet line set up. I want to add a work light some where on the rear of the tractor. Im currently debating on building a 2 into 1 exhaust stack and running up through the hood(my hood is dented) like some of the old farm tractors used to do. I thought about adding a cooling fan like the pullers use. Im going to put fluid in the tires and if $$ holds out buy or build a front weight bracket. This tractor is just for playing in the garden and having something to tinker with.

oil and pressure gauges
 

I picked up the pressure at the filter with a simple "T" I bought at Ace hardware. If I was going to add the oil temp gauge I would look at the oil pressure warning light sensor on the right lower side of the engine. It is down where the oil is still inside the engine and here again all you would need is a "T" for the temp probe and the other port for the oil pressure switch. If someone knows something about this port that would make it not work now is the time to speak up. I used a wet gauge or actual oil to measure the pressure. I gave up on the electrical type because they are hard to get at an auto parts store. I found out that if you do not know the exact car make and engine model they cannot tell you much about the sender. Also some are positive ground and some are negative. It usually doesn't tell you on the part box. When the sales guy looked them up on his computer it told him almost no details on the part. If you go with a wet gauge and use the poly line that comes with most of them, make sure to use the plastic wire cover over the line to protect it from heat and rubbing. While we are talking about gauges does anyone know how to convert from amps to volts? I can do it from any ignition source but was wondering if there was one that was considered the best source. My amp gauge moves so little that I think I might be able to tell more from volts. Any ideas on this?

Rudy I agree on the oil temp location. I was going to T my pressure gauge there at the light sensor but I like your idea better. I guess you could also T at the filter line right at the block. I would like to add oil coolers to both my tractors but it will have to wait for more play $$. I was planning on using the wet gauge style also. My amp gauge moves a little but not much either when I think about it. I need to do some measuring to see if there is enough room on the dash to mount 3 gauges comfortably.

I went ahead and cleaned up the thread some of the post have been edited. We are now back on topic.:beer2:

The gauges are a great idea. I don't think I would install an oil cooler and from what I've seen they are not needed. Just run good oil and change it often.
Rudy, just pick up the volts from the battery terminals.

Rudy-

If you want a voltmeter instead, splice the ammeter wires together (temporarily perhaps if you later change your mind with this mod) and run a wire from ground to the - terminal of the voltmeter, and connect the + terminal of the voltmeter to the + terminal of the hourmeter. That way it'll only be on when the ignition is on. A voltmeter is a good mod and will tell you more about the condition of the electrical system than the ammeter will.

dsmithjr-

I would tee the low pressure sensor port on the block and use that instead of the filter, to make it easier to unbolt the filter bracket and swing it away from the engine to make less of a mess when changing the filter, and also because that low oil pressure sensor is connected to the main oil gallery in the engine.

An oil temp gauge sender really needs to be immersed in the oil sump or it isn't going to tell you anything useful. The low oil pressure sensor is near the top of the engine on the right side, so putting a temperature gauge in that area won't really help. If you need more room in the dash, move the hourmeter under the hood. There's really no need to be able to see that while the engine is running anyway.

MattG, My original thoughts were to T at the light sensor for my oil pressure gauge also and I see your point about swinging the filter away during changes. I was wondering about the temp sensor and if you could screw it in in the front of the oil pan were the front drain is?I tried to research what the temp sensor end looked like and how it would screw in but could find much. I am definitely going to move the hour meter under the hood. Mine is not working how do you test them? I have 12v to it when the key is on but it doesnt turn over unless I havent ran it enough to change numbers.

More pictures if your interested
 

Here is the firewall after a quick quote of paint
http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/...4/firewall.jpg
Cleaning the fenders. There are several dents and scrapes but I think they will paint out fine for a work tractor with a little prep work
http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/...ingfenders.jpg
I took my trusty toothbrush and some degreaser and started cleaning the frame and driveline so I can do a little painting and make it look a little better
http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/...ecleanrear.jpg

Your doing a great job! Loving all of your pics too!

Man oh man, if only the entire seat/trans cover would tilt to the back like a semi cab does! That would make it so easy to keep everything clean and grass free. Keep up the good work!:beerchug:

HMM,Rudy maybe you can design a mod for that!

Now you know we cant talk about making any changes and being off topic or the immortal one will scorn us!

I started back on the one I got from him and well after getting all the oil / dirt mix off the frame I found where the leak was on mine. The two power steering lines are cracked. Dosnt really mater I needed to remove it to weld the crack in the frame.

I wish I had the patiance to do a compleate resto on a tractor. I have a green friend in Ga that offered to do my WH, I may just let him do it.

Vince actually I think its a good idea and something to try. Ill add that to my mod list so we can talk about it. Working on the cub is my way of dealing with stress so I make time to tinker to keep me sane LOL. I think the gauge mod is a definite but I may use the cluster and mount it at the bottom of the dash. I'm changing the pedal pads to the style on my 2284 and I'm also using the Cyclops style rubber foot rest. Just looking it maybe possible to put hinges on the front fender mounts to allow the fenders to tilt forward a little. I don't see any way to make them tilt back with out major mods. Ill up load some more pictures tonight of today's progress

:bigthink: Making changes is called modifying and part of the topic. Dragging on about paint and heat and taking away from the topic of fixing and modifying does not fit the topic. :bash2: Glad to see you are concerned tho to keep things in line. :biggrin2:

Well I worked on them too as a hobby. Some take it WAY to serious. I was doing some more looking tonight and found another crack behind the the big steering plate. Well now I guess Ill have to make a choice to try and save it or pull a few more things off and evil pay it. Sucks cause I like the 18 I have and the 20 would look good with it.

Now that Im back working on mowers I cant get into it like when I was driving. Seeing pics of someone doing a total restore or even like I do just shoot them to keep the rust off them, I enjoy.

Im glad the "correct police" haven got to me yet, LMAO Id be in jail! But when you have kids running them you never know what will happen. Danny has flipped his 100, tore a fence down with Vinces 582, he ran over trees with his 67 110, and Vince really hasnt done anything to destroy one yet. So it will be a while before I tear one all the way down and redo it. But I really wanted to put my PF Eng loader on the 2072.

You've been busy! Thanks for the pics.

Vince you need a Daddy only cub LOL. I really like the 2072 so far. It actually drives better than the 2284. I always wanted to do a resto mod after seeing all the cool cubs the guys here were building but I wanting to wait until I had a platform that would suit what I thought I wanted. I think the 2072 fits that bill.

Thanks Cecil! Maybe if I get this thing done I can borrow my dads blade and do a dirt pushing video to keep up with you LOL

Don

While you have the seat pan off you may want to put a vent in the top of the trans. Helps when you go to fill it. I put one in my 1882 see attached pics. I removed the bolt circled in red and drilled it and tapped it for 1/8" pipe while I had the rear cover off. Put a brass hose adapter in then some hose and a gas filter to keep crud out.

That's one of the best ideas I have seen. Really need to do the one on Big Red.

Anytime! Looking forward to your vid. :ThumbsUp:

While you got it that far why dont you put a cast iron rear in it? Only 6 more bolts and some springs, carter keys and 2 gal of oil.

Sam, I should have done that when I had the rear end apart. Now its back together with new fluid and filter so I think Ill wait til the next fluid change. Im gonna save your post in my mods file.
Vince, I thought about that when I was repairing the broken bolts but decided to just use the aluminum rear end due to having to change the internals. I actually had another thread on the rear end repair. So far I haven't had any more trouble out of either rear end in the 2284 or 2072. I make it part of my maintenance routine to check the bolts to make sure they stay tight. I may find a couple of cast rear ends and tackle that project later on.

Every one that comes threw the shop I check. I also check the eng bolts on all the old ones. Not had a problem with the new stuff. Youd be surprised how many people around here have the alum rears and dont know to check them.

I wonder why they went to alum in the 82's? I just got an email from Mike Jackson hes painting a cyclops super. I dont know if he posted pics of it.

Vince my cyclops needs painting bad maybe I can get to it next

Simple, it's all about the $$$$ with MTD :biggrin2:

As far as I know, MTD switched to the AL rear due to the fact that they were already making a bunch of AL rears for other manufactures (being Modern Tool and Die) and there were some EPA issues with them doing CI work . . . and it was the beginning of the cost reductions. All about the $$$

Bean counters
 

I grew up in Pensacola Fl. and spent most of my youth on the water with outboard motors. There was either Johnson or Evinrude (same company), and not much else except Mercury which was not that big then. The thing that really bugged me about them was that for a few dollars per engine they could have used stainless screws and bolts/nuts. But no, they used plated hardware until the Japanese came along and forced them to. A two year old engine in salt water would have red streaks running down the shaft but it didn't seem to bother the companies involved. Every company has to make cost decisions and maybe MTD saw the trend from farm implement to lawn mower and decided that not only would aluminum be cheaper but most owners would never know the difference. But I'll bet the number one reason was money.