2182 dual hydraulics
 

I have a 2182 and just bought a 54" blade with the hydraulic angle option. I only paid $125.00 and got new tire chains for 26" tires thrown in! Now the question. What valve do I need to add a second hydraulic valve and front ports? I just bought this valve "Cub Cadet 1772 Super GT 2 Spool Hyd. Valve 717-3025" on Ebay, but now I'm pretty sure its not what I need. I think from some of what I've been reading is a second valve to stack onto the original. What and where to get the parts I need would help a whole lot. I use a snow blower for the snow, this blade would only see dirt and sand, not that makes any difference LOL.( I guess I'm saying I'm not racing the snow). TIA Don

Don

I have the valve you need thanks to CubyFan, problem is I don't have the connectors that go between the 2 valves so that you can stack them and they are NLA from Cub. They used to sell a kit for the Cyclops tractors but it is NLA. I’ll do some digging and see if I can get you some more info.

If it is the "square" valve like on my 1782 the fitting is still available from cub. It's about $12 plus the O rings and backer washer. Need to look under 3000 series to find the part.

Tim
That's the part he is going to need. I'm going to defer to you for the part number. That or give us a 3000 series model number, I looked around at the3000 stuff and didn't find it.:bigthink:

Here is a pic of the dual sticks I added on my 3k tractor. Look in the (365)cat 0 parts section page 4. It is part #711-3294, you will need the rings with it also if they don't come with it. I probably have a few extra laying around if you can't find any.

That is why OCC is the best! You guys rock! We don't need no stinkin MTD to Git Er Done! :beerchug:

I used part # 711-3294 with o rings 921-3021 and o ring back up 721-0492 to add two new valves. I learned that you do not need to "over" tighten the 1/4 bolts that hold them together. It can bind the valve and not allow you to move the lever.

No idea what it looks like but MTD is proud of it

711-3294 ADAPTER-VALVE $18.69

I would like to get my hands on one and see what it would cost to have them made. :bigthink:

Sam,
If you give me a little while, I can provide the dimensions of the part. I bought one a while back so I could have a pattern to make my own.

Unfortunately, by the time you buy the material and pay the shop to have one made it would be very expensive. I'm guessing that part would be at least $50 by the time you get it. My time for pet projects doesn't have a lot of value at times or I wouldn't make my own. I'm also sure that they will be NLA within a few years and I still have decades of working on Cub Cadets ahead of me.

For some of your general hydraulic needs, check out Baum Hydraulics in Omaha, NE. I get a lot of my hydraulic stuff there. Request their catalog. I'm not a fan of their website.

Geoffrey

Here is a pic of the part...I think they mark it up just a little.

Attachment 44777


length is 0.837"
small tube OD is 0.336"
small tube ID is 0.249"
large center spacer part that is centered is 0.563" OD and is 0.118 thick

me not a machinist:bash2:

let me know if you guys want anymore pics. this should be pretty easy to make.

Thanks to all your help. I bought the needed valve from SamMac, and soon I will be asking about the needed lines. Are the hydro parts from a 3200GT or any newer tractor adaptable for my 2182?
I did find the 711-3294 part for $9.71 at http://www.cubcadetpartsnmore.com/ They seem to have good prices on belts. Don

That would be so easy to make. Todd if you have a spare send it to me and I'll get a bunch made for the members on OCC.

Will do Sam.:beerchug:

Wish the post was here 2 months ago. Bought two stubs and 6 o-rings. After tax and shipping... $67.00 :bash: so sam if you would let us kno when you get those built! :beerchug:

Guys

I'm going to print out this pic, take to the machine shop and get an idea what it will cost. It will have to be less than $9.71. Thanks Oak for the info.

Checked with the machine shop. We can have them made for about $8.00. Let me know if any of you want some, we need to order at least 10.

I'll do 3. Can paypal you. Thanks in advance.

Rescue

As soon as I get the factory one from Todd I'll get a batch made up. Any of you guys know why they require 4 O-Rings on them? :bigthink:

I think two of the rings are Teflon, and two are rubber. I looked it up, but don't remember. That's how almost all valves assembled like that are. Helps hold the pressure I guess.

I didnt know a guy needed 4! Thanks for info. will kno more when i tear mine a part

Just looked at the install directions for the valve kit for the Cyclops and they only mention 1 O-Ring on each side of that adapter, maybe the 3000's are different. Can't say because I have never seen one. :bigthink:

The 3k tractors only require 1 ring per side also. I will get the adapter and some rings out to you this week Sam.

I would be interested a pair of them as well.

Don

Big thanks for this post Just checked pricing on a bunch of seals and gaskets I need for my 1782, www.cubcadetpartsnmore.com had better pricing than every other place I looked at. :beerchug:

SamMac, I would like one of those adapters also please.

The diagram for the 365 3-point hitch shows a 721-0492 oring backup in addition to the 721-3021 oring on each side of the adapter.

2182 dual hydrualics
 

Hi Sam,

I would like whatever is needed to convert my 1882 as well. If you can please PM me when your ready.

Thanks Mike

Hi Guys,

I am trying to do this exact same project to a 2084. Just picked up a plow for it and want to make it fully hydraulic. Any help would be great.

Sam - you don't happen to have another one of those valves laying around do you? I see I just missed one on eBay a few days ago :-(

Also, this part you are having made is what stacks these valves together, right? If so, I am in for 2 of them!

Thanks guys!

I looked at the 3000 blade angle kit that required adding a valve. That is where I got the opinion that it needed both o rings and back up rings. I may have been wrong, but only wanted to do it once.

SamMac- I just re-read these posts and realized I should have asked you to reserve 2 of the adapters for me rather than 1.
Thanks!

Sam Mac or anyone else, can you confirm that the part number I need for and additional hydraulic valve for my cyclops SGT, model 2084 is 717-3308a?

Then I will just need to make a handle to operate the valve, correct?

Thanks for the help guys!

Yep that's the number

Guys
I just want you to understand that I have never added the front hydraulics to any of my tractors. That said it looks like a pretty straight forward project. Reading the service manual as I understand it they just stack a second valve on top of the existing valve using 1 of those adapters we have been talking about in this thread between the 2 valves. The red arrow in the pic of the valve shows where that adapter goes. The valves are common between all the Cyclops series tractor that have hydraulic lift. I would try the sponsors at the top of the page for the valve and handle. I would also try to get the hoses that go to the lift cylinder. I think you could then just buy some flare unions from Aeroquip or Parker to extend the hoses to the front of the tractor, not sure at the moment if they are JIC or AN but I will check it out. Aeroquip also makes a fitting they call Versil-Flare that I think would work well to extend the return line that runs from the top of the valve back to the tee fitting under the tunnel cover. If any of you guys need the service manual and or the higher resolution pics that are posted here send me a PM with your e-mail address and I’ll get them out to you.

Sam - thanks for the response and pictures. You confirmed exactly what I was thinking. I agree, it looks like a very straight forward project, I just need to find the valve first.

Thanks for the offer, I will shoot you a PM.

Brandon

Sam, you can put me down for a pair of connectors. I still have enough of the other parts around to adapt a Cyclops for a 4-way plow. Thanks for the help!

Sam - I would like to get 2 of these as well when you get it all figured out. I will keep monitoring this thread for progress. Thanks for all of the help!

Guys

I don't understand why most of you are asking for more that 1 of these things? As far as I know you only need 1 to go between the 2 valves. Like I said before I am not doing this conversion myself nor have I ever seen one in person. I have no need for front hydraulics on my Cubs. Reading the manual for the Cyclops front hydraulic kit it only shows 1 of these adapters needed. The adapter goes between your existing valve and the valve being added allowing the fluid to flow from the existing valve into the new valve. I think the bigger issue for those of you will be the hoses. That said this is the list of members that have expressed interest in the adapters and the quantity they have told me they want. Let me know if you wish to change the amount.

Rescue11 3
Oak 1 NC because he is supplying the OEM part to copy.
V30crewcab 2
Jubilee 2
Cubyfan 2
Captain B 2
LiamD 1

I have been following the thread with interest. I would be more interested in a adapter that would allow fitting a hose to it. (Pipe fitting) Different setup, but would make the spool from these newer machines usable to any system.

Note on the o-ring and washer. the washer is not needed as noted, but makes the connection more reliable and serviceable in the field. IH moved to that in the VT365 6.0 ford used for the standpipe which feeds the oil to the injectors. eliminated o-ring blowout.

I'm looking into how to make something that will connect to the valve and adapt to pipe or AN threads. Aeroquip makes a braze on fitting that goes from tube to #6 AN that looks like it may play. My other thought would to take the valve apart and cut threads in the ports for a fitting. Gotta love redesigning MTD stuff.

I'm installing two additional valves on my 18, and another 1 on dads 18. I understand the concept of needing 1 for each additional valve. Plus with the new 2284 added to the fleet, I want to have a few of these stubs around. Especially for this gr8 price. I have extra stack valves that I have purchased over time. Purchased many hoses with the flange that hooks to the stack valve! Can't wait!

The hard part?
 

So, from what I've read here and looking at the parts list, it looks pretty easy to install the valve. The hard part for me will be the pipe/hoses. The closest to doing hydraulic lines were just simply replacing a leaking part with a new one.
From what I can figure is I will need the original pipes off of a valve and partway down add longer hose to the front, then the quick connectors. Does that sound like the best plan? Should I be looking on ebay for some used pipes, or buy some new ones at $65.00 apiece? Am I be better off bending new pipe all of the way to the front? I wish I could find the premade parts so I could just do a bolt in,(I love pre bent pipe) but I don't think that will happen. Just some random thought while I wait for parts! Don


http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Cub-Cade...item43c2f61252

Look at this stuff! Could I make some of this stuff work? Or not!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-18...item232ce161dd

This looks like the right pipe to valve body I need