Replacement idle screw spring
 

So, a few months ago I rebuilt the carb and engine in my 1250. Works like a charm...but the idle screw spring was all rusted and I reused it, but I really need a new one. Because its causing idle problems for me. So, after doing some research. I have found that its difficult to get a replacement spring. What have others found to work for them? Thanks

What is the Kohler Model and Spec number to your engine...???

Model: k301aqs
Spec: 47622d

Per the Kohler Manual for Adjustable Carb 47-853-20:

200380-S Spring, idle needle
232555-S Spring, idle screw

Both available from either your local CC or Kohler Dealer(s).

I found those part numbers. But when I looked online at Partstree.com and cubcadetpartsnmore.com they said to call them, which was what pretty much every other site is saying as well. I'll give the local cub cadet dealer a shot.

http://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeen.../spring-200380

http://www.amazon.com/Kohler-Part-20.../dp/B00CNX4DLO

http://www.kohlerenginesparts.com/Pa...OH//200380-S/1

Here's at least three places you can get it......

This is why it is better to rely on the accuracy of information from Cub Cadet or Kohler rather than some supplier.

:IH Trusted Hand:

Well said, and nice find Jonathan! Thanks fellas!

ok, so I got the new idle spring. While I was at it. I ordered a new brass governor shaft nut. I got the old one off and put the new one on. Now, my governor is all out of wack. Here's the issue....when I took it apart....i'm not sure I put the tab back on the governor correctly. If I take the nut back off and use a flash light I can see that I can orient the tab horizontally or vertically. Now, I don't remember how it was when I reassembled the engine...but I did could see up through the oil pan to ensure I assembled it correctly. I can't do that this time. So, if I were to look inside the hole, how should I see that tab? Horizontal or vertical?

Did you follow the procedure in the Service Manual (TP-2379) as outlined on pages 12.1 - 12.2..???

I just reread those pages. That procedure I can follow if I can gain access to inside the block....which i followed during reassembly. Now its assembled and I can't gain access to the inside of the engine.

cub
 

Hi OldCubby, Check to see if your gov shaft nut uses a washer or not. I rebuilt a 16 that had no washer behind the nut. I had the tab welded. Started motor, no gov.WTH Messed with settings forever, pulled the nut and found depth could be changed. Put a washer behind it and all was fine. Some use a washer some do not. Not quite your problem but info you might see useful. Mike

I was just reading this where it says there's a copper washer behind the nut....mine did not come with one. Hmmmmm

I have no idea what you are talking about. IF you are referring to the little arm on the governor shaft and not knowing how to position it...... When you adjust the governor as per the manual, you are adjust just that. You are putting the cross shaft in the correct position. Maybe you better read the manual again......

IIRC, that copper washer is for oil control so it don't spew out the shaft.

Did you adjust your Governor per the Manual as found 6.27 - 6.32..???

Yes that's what happened to me. I think by adding the washer it let the tab come out to run on the center of the gov.

cub
 

From what I've seen there are 2 styles of that gov arm, some with bushings some not. And the brass nuts, some with washers some not. ( new verses old). Mike

Here is the Governor per your SPEC number...

I've reread the manual a few times. But understanding how the governor is positioned in the block and how the tab is oriented in the block when the block is already fully assembled is difficult. I can rotate the cross shaft and tab by moving the cross shaft in and out of the block. which in turn, changes the orientation of the tab that contacts the governor pin. The orientation of the tab I can get it to be horizontal or vertical. But after looking at the attachment you just left....I can see the tab on the cross shaft is vertical inside the block.

Thank you for this illustration.

Here is a Video on the K Series Governor Adjustment. Start viewing at the 7:00 minute mark

Governor Adjustment

Thanks for the video. I know how to set the governor. I just had issues when I removed the nut and confirming I had the cross shaft and tab in the correct orientation in relation to governor. I'll set it tonight when I get home.

thanks for the help and stuff guys.

Mr OldCubby. I don't think you are understanding..... It doesn't matter if you point the tab on the arm strait up in the air. When you adjust the governor, it positions the tab to the correct location. It MAKES NO DIFFERENCE which way it is facing. You'll fix it's orientation when you adjust it.

Hmmmm that interesting...I thought I read somewhere that the cross shaft should never rotate more then 1/8 of a rotation and if it does, then that tab could be busted off.. If that is true...then how can I rotate the tab straight up in the air and it'll "rotate" down to the governor properly? I'll figure it out tonight when I get home:bash2::bash2::bash2:

I was merely trying to make a point. You can't actually point it straight up. Just go home and adjust the governor and don't over think it. It's pretty simple. It will be fine.

I apologize, but I don't know how to link certain threads, yet. But here is where I read that I shouldn't be able to rotate the governor shaft more then 1/8. Which in my block is true....I can't rotate the shaft more then 1/8 turn. So the governor shaft needs to be in the correct location to rotate that 1/8 turn to make contact with the governor. Or I am just going crazy...

the governor weight assembly is lower than the cross shaft so the tab hangs downward. I've seen the brass governor nuts bind up the cross shaft before, they are just a tad too long. A thin washer or grind a bit off the brass nut will keep them from going to deep and hitting the spacer on the cross shaft. I've been shortening the brass nut and I try to keep the shaft end play minimal.

This makes sense....my new nut when tighten down to the proper in-lbs binds the cross shaft to where it won't rotate. I'll grind down the nut a little at a time until I get it with minimal play and rotates freely.

torque the brass nut? I've never done that before. I just use common sense tight.

:biggrin2: Me too

The manual calls out 100/120 in-lbs of torque for the bushing nut. I guess I use common sense if I read the manual :bigthink:

I didn't know it had a torque..... Shouldn't be surprised. Everything does.....

:beer2::beer2:The governor is fixed and worked like a charm! the tab did need to be pointed down when installed and then I went through the procedure to set it.

years ago I helped write a manual for a military truck (PLS) they built. I did the engine section. when ever they asked what the torque is on a bracket or a cover I'd say common sense tight. their response was always "We assume their is no common sense in the military"

realistically there's only 2 things you need to torque, rod and head. the rest are tight enough you don't strip them out and tight enough they don't come loose , I've been turning wrench's since I was 10.

If I followed the Kohler manual I wouldn't be making the horsepower we are

I do intakes too. Especially aluminum.

I think he was referring to the "K" series Kohlers ......

I was referring to Kohler.

That occurred to me the second I hit I hit submit. :bash2::beerchug:

Sorry, Don!

GOOD to hear.:clap:

:Morning: Glad to hear you have the gov'r problem straighten out. How is everything else working out on your newly restored 1250? :American Flag 1: