Flywheel removal tools
 

Good morning folks, I've got a 12hp 301 and I am down to the flywheel removal. I'm not sure what I need to do next, Please take a look at the picture, I am curious about the small pulley up front, that has the 4 small
screw holes, What do I need to remove it? I have a Puller for the flywheel
but I assume I need to get this off 1st,

Thanks
Dave

Daniel1962 I can't tell from the pic but the nut or bolt has to be removed on the pulley with the 4 bolt holes in it. Then you should be able to wiggle or tap the pulley back and forth to remove it. It is located with a dowel pin so it might put up a little resistance coming off. Then you have access to the flywheel. Good luck Kelly

Update with a close up picture, Maybe the little swivel bearing has to come out?

Dave

Bearing has to come out and then you'll find a nut behind it that holds the flywheel on the crank. You'll find the service manual in the tech library.

I have never dealt with one that has the swivel bearing in it. :bigthink:

Yep that's how they do the bearing in a QL like a 1200. The 3 pin driver bolts to the four 1/4" bolt holes. You can see it on the Cub parts site, type in 1200 for the model and take a look at the clutch.

How does that swivel bearing come out?

Dave

Just like a pilot bearing in a flywheel. It has to be pulled. Slide hammer is the best way.

On car flywheels I have mostly filled the bearing with grease and found a shaft that fits the bearing ID and hit the shaft with a hammer. You would be using hydrolic pressure to push the bearing out. I don't know if it would work in this application but that's how I remove car flywheel pilot bearings.

Sorry that won't work disregard previous post

You guys are all wrong
The part that the picture shows IS PART of the 3 pin driver
It is broken free of the remainder of the driver and should be a crimp fit to the driver itself. When you purchase a new driver it is part of the ass'ly.

You may be able to use a sharp 1/2" or so chisel between the hub adaptor and what's left of the driver ass'ly to get them separated by tapping around the circumference, either way the 3 pin driver will likely be toast so dig into your piggy bank to see if there is about $120 in there somewhere!

Once you get it apart, I think it would be possible to weld it back on the driver, But it will be likely to un-balance the while affair and maybe warp it in the process, worth a try anyway.

The hub will, as has been suggested, will come off the f/wheel with a few sideways taps back and forth once the nut holding it to the C/shaft has been removed. You will need a steering wheel puller to remove the F/W using the 2 threaded holes provided. Be sure and screw the nut on flush with the C/S end so as not to damage the threads w/the puller and to avoid injury to self when it pops loose which it will do with a bang.

Good Luck!

Now I am really confused,
I found this picture on online, Its the drive cup.
This is what I have and It does appear that the bearing is pressed in.


The 3 pin driver, came off with removal of these 4 small hex head bolts. And yes, it is cracked a bit, and I probably get another one. So I am still at the point that I need to get this pulley off. It does look
like a pilot bearing puller will work. I dont have one just yet. Still open for ideas. Its amazing all the different info posted here.
Thanks
Dave

OK if you say so. Excuse me for taking the time to look it up on the Cub parts site. Since you are the expert please take over. I should know better. :bash2::beatdeadhorse:

Folks I really appreciate all the advice, I sure dont want to start an argument
amongst you veteran Cub owners. I'm just a new guy on here looking for help
on disassembly

thank you All
Dave

No..... the original info is correct. The QL's (AQS motors) used a different set-up than all other gear drive tractors. I'm quite certain.

Dave

You are not starting an argument. You're just asking for advice, that's why your here. I just get PO'd when someone jumps in that doesn't know what he is talking about.

The quiet line tractors because of the rubber engine mounts needed a flexible coupling at the clutch to allow some degree of flex so they inserted the ball bushing into the hub. The ridged mounted engines like in the older tractors had the bushing as part of the 3 pin driver.

Remove the ball bushing and behind it you will find a nut that must be removed in order the pull the flywheel.

Hope this helps. :beerchug:

The Quiet Line manual transmission IH Cub Cadets had 2 different styles of pilot bearing. It depends when the tractor was made.

The 2nd picture in the 1st post shows the pilot bearing in the hub adapter. This is how it suppose to be. The newer 3 pin drivers and hub adapter were design to be separate parts. Look close just inside the 4 bolt holes that held the 3 pin driver on. You can see the outside of the pilot bearing housing. I would try a bearing puller or a thin blade screwdriver around the outside of the bearing....not the swivel bushing. The last tool you want to use is a 1/2 or so chisel.

This is from the Cub parts site. The parts in the red circle are what you are dealing with. Pic is for a Cub 1200. You have not told us what model your working on so this is my best guess. I'm pretty sure you have the part # 29 style. From the drawing you have already removed # 8, now you need to remove # 29 then you need to remove the nut holding the coupling to the flywheel then you can remove flywheel.

This is the original post. It is sparse as far as information. A lot of posts have come forward and yet NOWHERE does he say what model of Cub Cadet he is working on. There is a lot of "assumptions" that maybe irrelevant.

In order for this thread to continue, it would be imperative that we know the COMPLETE and CORRECT information so the proper responses can be sought.

He's working on a 1200. However I see your point about extra info needed. Not sure if the pictures were part of the original post but the bearing gave it away for me

Where does it say that..........????????? :Huh:

It wasn't stated, but the OP also has these threads:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=37857

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=37888

He's typing in invisible ink and only a few can see it. :biggrin2:

It doesn't. I looked through his recent posts and he has just picked up a 1200 and has been working on it. And I've had one apart and it's the same as stated above

Again I agree that he needed more info but the pics give it away that it's out of QL

I'm going by what the picture shows, and it looks to be PART of the 3 pin flex plate driver from a 1200 QL or possibly even a 1000 QL.

I have both and they are just like that. Purchased a NEW 3 pin driver to fix a 1000 just last spring and that is what was shipped, a complete ass'ly.

I suppose a screw driver would work also, didn't for me.
What I was dealing with is the same thing, only the flex plate on mine was completely broken away from the rest, busted all around the bolt holes.
What was left of the flex plate would not come off of the pilot bearing housing. If I still have the part I will post a picture.

Sorry to ruffle any feathers.

Well...........seems to me. If a person wants help, they need to give clear, concise, and accurate information if they want clear, concise, and accurate answers. Members here should not have to dig and look elsewhere for information that should be upfront.

Lately, we have seem to run across this more and more, and then people trying to give answers - get testy. They are trying to get additional information, then the PM's fly that someone has got an attitude or cocky, and it stirs up a whole bunch of crap.

Lets see an exact Cub Cadet tractor model or Kohler Engine Model and Spec number. Then all of us can be on the same page.

guys, I sincerely apologize for not making it clear as to what exactly I was working on. It is indeed a 1200 . I really do like this forum, I dont want to
cause any grief for anyone. You all have tons of good info to share. Maybe it best to Close this thread.

thanks
Dave

Hey Daniel1962,

The Hub adapter in your pictures and the ball bushing are two separate parts, the ball bushing (and it's little housing) should be pressed into the hub adapter but shouldn't be too difficult to remove. As Merk suggested you may be able to pry it out from the outer edge with a small screw driver, or it may be a little more difficult and may requite a bearing removal tool or slide hammer.

Behind that bushing is the nut that holds the flywheel AND the hub adapter on. Remove the nut (probably 15/16") then gently tap the hub adapter back and forth, once it loosens wiggle it until comes off, sometimes they are difficult, it has a locating pin that may hold it fast. The hub adapter can be damaged, so be careful.

As some have suggested, IH did make a change somewhere during production but I don't believe this is of any consequence in your application. Someone correct me if I'm mistaken.

Do not fret over the "heat" contained in this thread, most of it is not your fault. However it is best to include a model number in a post as many of us can't remember who owns what tractors and it makes things easier for anyone who wants to reply.

Good luck with your project.

This is why it is important to give all the information. In this case, the bushing was changed at serial number 612807.

The Bushing has to be pried or pulled out to get to the nut behind it.

The Drive Cub is: KH-041-071-03
The Bushing is: 941-3004
The Bushing is: IH-126205-C2

Terry

I've done the same thing on Chevys, not sure I'd want to be hammering on the crank on one of these but if I couldn't get it out any other way I'd give it a shot. :beerchug:

Guys

Figured I would apologize for going Nuke on finsruskw yesterday.

Yosemite Sam this has probably just fueled the PM blizzards, sorry buddy.

Daniel1962, I know you and I are good, thanks for the PM.

So to all, sorry for being a bit of an A$$ yesterday.

Getting that bushing/bearing out may be tough.

I mentioned earlier that a slide hammer is probably the best tool for the job. I want to say that you may end up breaking that old drive cup though. You may not be able to avoid it. The bushing is more than likely stuck pretty good, and as old as the aluminum is, it may just break. It may not..... but just know if you do break it, it's not necessarily something you did wrong.

Here is a link to Harbor Freight. First link is the tool that is the most suitable for the price. Second link is all the slide hammers they offer. Hope this helps. :beerchug:

http://www.harborfreight.com/15-piec...-set-5469.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...q=slide+hammer

Three pin with the ball bushing on it.

I just picked up a 4-pak of those bushings on the Bay for $26.
He has several packs left.

Lew

Why do I see 4 pins?

Daniel1962

Two more ideas on getting the ball bushing out are.

1: Heat the aluminum cup with a propane torch to expand it.

2: If all else fails take a die grinder to it and cut it out.

Over rover,I wonder if you can drill out the rivits and make a new plate,then bolt it back on.The metal is prolly some kinda spring steel

Maybe Jeff may have an answer.

Sam, not a word. We all have bad days and I think everyone knows and understands it.

Thanks for the pictures Lew. I've never seen a three pin driver like that, hard to tell from the pic but I think I like it better than the one with the really thin spring steel in the middle, cept I'm not sure I like the ball bushing being part of the driver.

I wonder if it would be possible to machine the center of the front out enough to get the bushing out then put it back together with the other style bushing?

That may not work either, it would probably cause the front and back to separate and just 1 thickness of metal would probably make it just as bad as the other design.