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Daniel1962 04-11-2015 07:44 PM

3 pin driver
 
2 Attachment(s)
Good evening folks,
I am nearing the point in my 1200 QL rebuild where I need a new 3 pin driver.
I have read several older post and it seems obvious that the stock driver is very flimsy. These things are selling for $120-$130 new and the used ones dont appear any better than mine. Before I bite the bullet & buy one, Is there anything I am missing that I can do or an alternative to make this any different? I think alot of you veteran members are very crafty when it comes to improvising.

thank you

Dave

Jeff in Pa 04-11-2015 07:52 PM

Post up pics of the driver. Maybe I can figure an inexpensive repair

jcsmith 04-11-2015 08:30 PM

clutch driver
 
Lakota has nice aluminum 3 pin stock replacement clutch drivers for $55.00.

Chris

olds45512 04-11-2015 09:02 PM

the 3 pin driver on a ql is designed to flex since its a rubber mounted engine, if you put solid mounts in you can run a standard non flex driver thats much stronger and cheaper.

Daniel1962 04-11-2015 09:51 PM

I had considered going with solid mounts, but I've already got new rubber one's
I'll post a picture tomorrow

Thanks
Dave

J-Mech 04-11-2015 09:55 PM

Well.... then you better shell out the $130 for a new one.

It would be cheaper to buy a set of solid motor mounts off Jeff and a used regular 3pin driver. Your choice.

Hand_108 04-11-2015 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 322020)
Well.... then you better shell out the $130 for a new one.

It would be cheaper to buy a set of solid motor mounts off Jeff and a used regular 3pin driver. Your choice.

x2.... i converted my 1200 over to solid mounts, solid 3 pin. solid rag joint.

Bob95065 04-12-2015 08:46 AM

If you do go with a stock driver make sure you do the cradle mod to your engine mount brackets. The most likely reason yours broke is the ISO mounts failed and the engine sagged throwing the driveline out of alignment. If you do the cradle mod you will save your mounts and driver which will protect your investment.

Daniel1962 04-12-2015 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob95065 (Post 322047)
If you do go with a stock driver make sure you do the cradle mod to your engine mount brackets. The most likely reason yours broke is the ISO mounts failed and the engine sagged throwing the driveline out of alignment. If you do the cradle mod you will save your mounts and driver which will protect your investment.

Appreciate that info Bob, I did the engine mount mod, used the oil pan as a guide,
I'll go ahead and replace the driver with a new one and just hope for the Best.

thanks
Dave

Bob95065 04-12-2015 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daniel1962 (Post 322056)
Appreciate that info Bob, I did the engine mount mod, used the oil pan as a guide,
I'll go ahead and replace the driver with a new one and just hope for the Best.

thanks
Dave

I don't think you are hoping for the best. You fixed the problem.

The failed ISO mounts are probably the cause of the failed driver. If you did the cradle mod you killed two birds with one stone. You won't have a problem with ISO mounts or the driver again. Besides, the original driver lasted ~40 years before giving out. I think you will be fine for another 40+ years.

Yosemite Sam 04-12-2015 07:30 PM

I hafta agree, if you keep the engine and drive shaft in line, the 3 pin driver will last a very long time.

Jeff in Pa 04-12-2015 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa (Post 322000)
Post up pics of the driver. Maybe I can figure an inexpensive repair

Dan sent me pictures and I declined to attempt to fix it. The best I could do would be to weld a washer in to strengthen the flange but the metal has already been fatigued.

Jeff

twoton 04-12-2015 10:27 PM

Texas Blues was talking about trying to fix his here;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...054#post263054

Maybe he will chime in or you can PM him and see if he had any luck doing so.


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