122 Electrical question
 

I got the new wiring harness hooked up, new battery installed, double check all my connections with the wiring diagram. I'm not electrically inclined by the way.... Just for curiosity I wanted to see if it turned over and nothing happened, neighbor came over and said maybe the neutral switch is bad so he disconnected and put a jumper wire in place, still nothing.
Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong?

Was the 122 working running before? Why did you replace the wiring?

It didn't have any wiring, only things it had were voltage regulator, coil, starter, solenoid, and neutral switch. I had to buy an ignition switch and a harness for it.

Are you sure, it is wired correctly....???

And, the Neutral Safety Switch is temporarily jumpered out.....???

I followed Mike's labels and double checked the diagram he sent. We pulled the plug on the neutral switch and jumped a wire from one side of the plug to the other.

122 has a clutch/brake switch but no "neutral" switch.

Maybe that's what that is on the underside of the frame, the parts diagram said neutral switch. The one thing I didn't check is if the battery was charged, but I assumed since it was new it would be.

Is the tractor wired per the #5 diagram contained here.... ?? Wiring Diagram

Yes, here is a few pictures if that helps.

I smell fresh paint. Check all the grounds on the starter solenoid, s/g, and the grounds on the dash tower.

Ditto....:ThumbsUp:

The VR top bracket I wire wheeled the back of that and the cast part of the grill that it bolts into, the pink ground wire is sandwiched between. The s/g I did the same thing to along with the other end of the pink wire that mounts to the dash. I did not however clean-up the paint on the 2 studs where the solenoid mounts. Could that be it?

One of the first things to check, is do you have a good ground from the s/g to the frame then to the battery. If you have a VOM, see if you have power to the Arm. post on the s/g, when you turn the ign. to start. If no VOM, take a jumper wire from the ign. post on the solenoid and touch it to the + post of the battery. If the s/g turns, then it could be the ign. switch or the wiring to or from the ign. switch.

Yep. :ThumbsUp:

do I need to clean the paint off the frame where the motor mounts also? Does the solenoid have an internal ground with that bracket?

Well.... the S/G grounds through it's base, and the base grounds to the motor, which grounds to the frame. Either you need to make all these things have good connection, or run the battery ground strap to the base of the S/G. You could also use a heavy wire and ground the S/G to the frame. Your choice. Yes, the solenoid grounds at the base.

Ok, I had Mike make an extra long negative battery lead (white) which goes from the negative post to the front mounting bolt that connects the s/g to the bracket. Is that correct? I read about it being a better ground in another post, so figured might as well have the harness made that way.

Yeah, I saw that wire. Knew it wasn't OEM but wondered if Mike added that or what the deal was. That should be sufficient. I'd check the solenoid for ground.

Sorry for all the questions, I like to be thorough. I appreciate all the help and when I get home tomorrow night I will clean the paint off behind the solenoid bracket and then try it and go from there. My dad also mentioned to check the markings on the back of the ignition switch to see if they match up with the wiring diagram since I bought the switch from auto parts store and not a cub dealer.

My bet is that you have the wrong switch.

Since the Solenoid is mounted to the Pedestal, it is imperative that not only there is bare metal where the solenoid mounts, but also where the pedestal mounts to the frame. There has to be a continuous ground path back to the Negative Battery Terminal.

:IH Trusted Hand:

The parts guy cross referenced the part# I gave him with primelines and told me this is the one I needed. But maybe the placement of the 3 prongs is different than a cub brand? It plugged in fine. But since I'm taking the solenoid out to clean up paint I might as well pull the switch and double check it also.

Since you bought a Non-Cub cadet part, just exactly what did you buy..???

It was a Prime Line brand 3 prong ignition switch.

Well, I spent the time and looked in a Primeline catalog and could not find any switch matching your description. So, again, what did you buy...???

I won't be home till tomorrow night, but I was told it was the OE replacement for IH-60736-C3 ignition switch. I didn't look in his book myself, I took his word that he knew what he was doing and found me the right part.

Let us know.... :popcorn:

I typed in the part# on eBay and this popped up that fits my model supposedly, I noticed the terminals are labeled differently than what the diagram reads. http:// http://m.ebay.com/itm/191437724044?nav=SEARCH

These are both diagrams for the 122, which is the right placement for the terminals on the ignition switch? Because if the top picture is wrong then the pins are in the wrong position on the plug.

This diagrams terminal positions match up with this correct cub part# switch.

You can NOT go by terminal locations. You have to make sure the correct wire goes on the correct terminal.

B = Light Green
I = Black
S = Orange


I am confused. YOU said, you bought a Primeline Switch yet you are referencing a switch of another brand on eBay. So, what is it? The ebay switch or the Primeline switch....?? :Huh:

the ignition switch plug from the harness has 3 positions, if they are not correctly placed the switch isn't going to work properly whether it's a Prime Line, Cub brand etc.. If Mike put the wires in the plug according to your revised diagram and the wires are in the wrong position no ignition switch is going to work.

You win............I am done :angry:

I'm not trying to "Win", maybe you didn't understand that it is a plug that connects to the ignition switch and not individual wires, that is the point I was trying to get across. I'm not here to "Win" just diagnose the problem. If what I am assuming is correct it will get fixed tomorrow when I get home, If I can get the pins out of that plastic plug without braking the plug.

I see both wiring diagrams and there is a difference in the ignition switch wiring,whys dat?
This is correct ,I made a picture for you.Ignore the blue wire.

I emailed Mike last night and he confirmed that the wires to the ignition switch plug look like Dark-minions pictures minus the blue wire LOL, so I ordered a new Cub brand ignition switch that will hopefully come by the weekend. I'm really itching to hook up the tiller and get the garden tilled.

This was the Prime Line switch, the order of the terminals is wrong for the wire harness plug. Good thing I ordered the correct switch.

The tiger will be purrrrring soon.
looks like you licked the problem.

oh the cliche ' s

I would have just switched the wires in the connector to match the switch you have. Would have taken 3 minutes and your cub would have been running..... Cheaper too.