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-   -   Weak hydro only in reverse (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=46912)

John147 12-12-2016 09:02 AM

Weak hydro only in reverse
 
Hi everyone so i've noticed since i bought my 1512 the reverse wasn't nearly as strong as forward. Sorry for the long rear and sentences i'm no English major.

I replaced the pump and rebuilt the drive line after i first purchased it this really made no improvement. The next thing tried adjusting the lever as per the manual and this made no difference with power output.

Then a few months ago i had a leaking release valve i replaced it with a used one and this made reverse a little better.

The trunion has very minor wear could this cause reverse to seem so weak?

This was never an issue at PA plow day or mowing as i always i never had much weight on the tractor. Now that i am using my 450 blower i really struggle to back up my drive way. I would like to add more weight to the rear as the front end is still to heavy but im afraid it will make reverse totally worthless.

Thanks in advance John.

J-Mech 12-12-2016 09:12 AM

Any worn linkage can make the pump seem "weak". Replace as necessary.

I find it interesting that you replaced the pump, yet it stayed the same. I'm no rocket scientist, but I would think that is a good indication that the linkage may be worn out, or out of adjustment.

olds45512 12-12-2016 09:23 AM

Sounds like a linkage issue to me, if it's wore or out of adjustment then it's probably not moving the trunion enough.

Terry C 12-12-2016 09:45 AM

Run it with the tunnel cover off, and while in reverse push the trunion with your hand and see if it helps.
Then you will know if it's the linkage

John147 12-12-2016 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 402932)
Any worn linkage can make the pump seem "weak". Replace as necessary.

I find it interesting that you replaced the pump, yet it stayed the same. I'm no rocket scientist, but I would think that is a good indication that the linkage may be worn out, or out of adjustment.


I replaced the pump due to the spiral pin hole being worn so it was mainly an observation i had. Is there a DIY on removing the spring from the trunion so i can weld and file the corners.

Workinprogress 12-12-2016 01:04 PM

One item I had my 1512 was the throttle cable Catching the hydro arm under the dash.. I would suggest removing the tunnel cover and examining everything as you move the hydro speed lever full speed forward and full speed reverse. Look for anything hitting or rubbing.

Dirty Steve 12-12-2016 01:52 PM

"Is there a DIY on removing the spring from the trunion so i can weld and file the corners. "

Bet that is a lot of your issue. Post some pictures of the trunion.

Does the hydro creep when the foot pedal is fully depressed? (Wheels turn forward or backward? More whine from the pump?)

If so, Bracket Assy, Cam Pivot (#7 on the Cub Cadet site parts look up) can be adjusted up and down per the service manual.

John147 12-12-2016 05:56 PM

Thanks everyone for the advice.

I checked my throttle cable today it's free and clear of any obstructions. The ball joints have a lot of side to side slop to i ordered a set from cub hopefully they will be here by Friday.

I am going to yank the fender pan either later tonight or sometime this week and i am going to get pics. I adjusted the rod between the hydro lever and the pump as i replaced that as i bent it doing the drive line rebuild. I am going to have to look up how to adjust the other plate though i'm sure it's out as with the lever full forward / backwards it never uses full movement in those slots

Hopefully i can get this fixed before i order a rear cat 0 weight bracket and load lock from Xtreme. I am planning on using 4 42 pound JD weights on the back to hopefully lighten the steering with the blower on.

John147 12-12-2016 06:32 PM

I decided to go out and take the fender off the trunion looks a lot better then i thought but the spring is very loose is this normal? Also the plate the the rod attaches to is very loose and sloppy i am assuming this is also an issue anyone have anyway to tighten this assembly up?

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...psi56auv0f.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...psfxjqglcl.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...psjcz05efy.jpg

This plate is very loose feeling.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...psmjdultrf.jpg

Jibber 12-12-2016 06:47 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I came across this service bulletin in a folder of things I have. May not be the issue but definitely worth checking.

J-Mech 12-12-2016 07:18 PM

John147:
Download a manual for the older tractors HERE. For some reason, they left this section out of the newer books. Start on page 2-57. Go through that adjustment. In your pics, the spring is the only thing that needs replaced. Cam bracket and swashplate do not look wore at all. I'd say your issue is poor adjustment and worn parts. You may need a new cam plate, or repair yours.

darkminion_17 12-12-2016 07:19 PM

John, how you doing.
That trunnion is in very good shape,here is a link to fix the slow reverse.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9j...ew?usp=sharing

Workinprogress 12-12-2016 07:28 PM

In your second picture down it looks like the threaded end with the nut of the ball joint is hitting your wire harness or gas line? Could just be the photo.

Have you watched this area as you move the hydro lever? What happens if you wiggle the plate?

Just another idea.

Yosemite Sam 12-12-2016 07:33 PM

Only the small spring in the trunnion will have enough tension to hold the spring guides on the ends. The large spring should not contact them, unless you are physically in the act of going from stop to go or from one direction to the other.

Take the rear "ball joint" loose from the speed control cam plate.

Push the plate all the way in one direction and and push the hand lever in the same direction, see if the ball joint is in the same place as the hole it goes in.

Then push the plate (and the hand lever) in the opposite direction and see if the ball joint lines up with the hole again.

I'm thinking that someone adjusted the connecting stud in an attempt to gain more forward speed at the cost of loosing rearward speed.

Jibber 12-12-2016 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkminion_17 (Post 402995)
John, how you doing.
That trunnion is in very good shape,here is a link to fix the slow reverse.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9j...ew?usp=sharing

Thank you. I just noticed the picture that I posted is barely readable. :bash2:

John147 12-12-2016 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 402994)
John147:
Download a manual for the older tractors HERE. For some reason, they left this section out of the newer books. Start on page 2-57. Go through that adjustment. In your pics, the spring is the only thing that needs replaced. Cam bracket and swashplate do not look wore at all. I'd say your issue is poor adjustment and worn parts. You may need a new cam plate, or repair yours.

Thank you for that. The manual makes that very clear when my new rod ends come in I am going to adjust my brakes and adjust the cam plate. I also just placed another order from cub for the 2 springs so i will do them as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkminion_17 (Post 402995)
John, how you doing.
That trunnion is in very good shape,here is a link to fix the slow reverse.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9j...ew?usp=sharing

I am doing alright you know how these tractors go one thing is off so they all decide to act up. The reverse is slow but it's just weak compared to the forward speed.

zippy1 12-12-2016 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John147 (Post 403009)
I also just placed another order from cub for the 2 springs so i will do them as well.

Then you should have ordered the caps as well.:beerchug:

John147 12-14-2016 09:04 PM

I started pulling everything apart tonight and welded any parts that had low spots in them.

I found the pin that the cam bracket mounts on had a bend to it so i took it to work and heated the pin and made it straight.

I read through most of the 82 series manual and i can't find the correct way to adjust the rod that goes from the hydro lever to the cam plate.

J-Mech 12-14-2016 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John147 (Post 403181)
I started pulling everything apart tonight and welded any parts that had low spots in them.

I found the pin that the cam bracket mounts on had a bend to it so i took it to work and heated the pin and made it straight.

I read through most of the 82 series manual and i can't find the correct way to adjust the rod that goes from the hydro lever to the cam plate.

Use the manual I linked to. The procedure is the same for an 82 series. I said this already in post #11..... :bash2:

John147 12-15-2016 08:34 PM

Finally got a chance to finish going through the linkage and adjusting everything as per the manual. This thing is now very fast in reverse and had no issue backing up my hill other than it's nose heavy right now.

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps53jepvb3.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...psscgck6be.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...psjebkbh0z.jpg


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