Single cylinder kohler 14HP or 16HP in a 682?
 

Hi guys, I need an engine for my 682 and most say not to bother with the KT17. I was thinking why not swap in a single cylinder 16hp engine from a 1650 or even a 14hp single from a 1450? They are both wide frames so it seems like it would be a easy swap. Let me know what you think. Seems like I could find those much easier and cheaper then a newer KT17 or magnum 18 etc....

It will work but it will have noticable vibration compared to a twin cylinder, I have a 1211 which is basically a 782 with a 12hp single and it's definitely not as smooth as twin but is tolerable in my opinion.

Yea the vibration don't bother me, The 106 doesn't bother me so I'm sure it would be fine. Will the electric pto clutch bolt right up and the driveshaft also or is some modification going to be required? thanks!

If you are patient, you will find a good series 2 or magnum.
Do not wast your $$ on a series 1 as a replacement.
I have 2 spare magnums, one I built from parts and another that was given to me by a wonderful member here.
They are not for sale, but just proving they are out there, craigs list, epay and others.
Hopefully other members here will post what cub models will fit, I think the cyclops series will fit and if you are willing to go with the newer "V" twin style, there are retrofit kits but they are a little pricy for some ppl but there are also used ones.

The most noticable difference between the 106 and the 682 is all the extra sheet metal on the 682, once the sheet metal starts vibrating it gets pretty loud. I spent some time on my 1211 trying to reduce it as much as possible and have it to the point where it's completely tolerable.

The retrofit kits are out of the question for now, I cant see paying that much for a mower engine. I have seen the magnums online but they are 4-500 plus. Maybe I will get lucky ........

I guess the extra metal would cause more vibration, how did you reduce the noise?

Watch for other brands with the Mag in them.... Sears put them in a lot of there GT's... Just make sure the shaft is the same or use the pre-existing PTO....

Do post to us here before you possibly purchase another engine as there are a lot of models of mags & series 2 that are different specks, that will not work for one reason or another, crankshaft diameters and lengths are just 2 that come to mind.
Luck with your search. :beerchug:

I cut fuel tubing and glued it to the grille housing towards the top of the side panel, that was a pretty noticable difference by itself. I also squeezed the hood a bit so it was tighter to the dash, other than that I basically just checked everything over to make sure everything was tight.

That would be weird....a red one puttering and shaking like a yellow one...


Might be sorta cool. I'd like to see it.

Are you offering to donate an engine? :biggrin2:

It would be just like a 1282 which was basically a 682 with a 12hp single.

Or a 680, 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211.


To the OP:
Finding a motor isn't near as hard to do as finding the engine mount will be.

Naw, only got one, and it's still making my 147 move.

Good luck! :beerchug:

I wish I could find a mag 18 horizontal.... and when I do people think they must be made of gold.

Had some time to get the old engine out this evening and do some cleaning on the 682. Attached are some pictures. Look at the hole in the side of the engine. I'm impressed at how heavily built this tractor is as well as the 106. I used the 106 earlier to move my 1800lb trailer earlier and it seemed to do it well. Another question, my 682 serial number is a 707 etc... so i know it was built after cub cadet was bought by mtd. I read that alot of them were built with left over IH parts to use up the inventory and i'm wondering about parts used on mine. I Have a red rear axle so i believe it is the IH axle, it also says international on the hood and has the decal behind the seat. ON the instrument tower it just says cub cadet without the international emblem which ive heard some have. I also do not have the IH logo on the grill( could have fallen off i suppose) SO basically after all this i'm wondering if mine was a "frankenstein model" where IH and MTD made parts were used and if so is the quality sub par to the 100% IH built 682's . Thanks in advance!

Does your serial tag say International Harvester? yeah, I've seen some that appear to be built from whatever inventory was on hand. If you didn't know, stick a magnet to the actual rear end casting (not the cover plate on the back) to see if you have an aluminum or cast iron rear. Not saying one is better or worse, just that there are 2 possibilities.

serial plate says cub cadet and i will try the magnet trick.Thanks

Red rear axle: cast iron, built by IH
Black rear axle: aluminum built by MTD

With the exception of the serial tag, and lack of emblems, your 682 is an IH machine.

Aluminum vs Cast Iron... go! :BB&YS:

My 782 is according to the serial tag a later 1981. Can't remember the month, but it's a black rear, cast center with aluminum axle carriers.
Would be a CCC/MTD.

As of yet, I haven't seen any of the '82 series with a black CI rear unless they were repainted. Not saying it isn't possible.... but not likely. I believe IH went to aluminum axle tubes in the QL series. I'd have to check some of mine, or the part numbers to verify. All the '82 series that had the aluminum axle tubes IIRC. They aluminum rear case trannies had a different rear cover, and were made different than the old CI unit's. They are easy to spot. :beerchug:

I have an mtd 782 with a black cast diff. Y/W serial 706125. I know 706124 was sold earlier this spring and had the same build configuration & paint, I considered buying it but ended up passing on it, holding out for a 582.

Anyone have any experience with a 16hp briggs and Stratton engine out of a YT-16 snapper. A member on here has one seems like it could work. Trying to dig up some info on it now. Let me know what you all think.

Don't hold me to this, because I'm no expert... but I think the 582 uses that style Briggs engine. Those mufflers aren't going to work though. You may need to change some wiring to do the swap, and at least need a muffler from a 582 with this briggs engine, and heat shields. Probably will have drive shaft length issues too.

http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-trac...cadet-580.html

The crankshaft diameter is 1" and I believe the original KT17 is 1 1/8" .

That too. But that's easy to work around compared to everything else. You could replace the clutch or get a sleeve to make it 1 1/8".

Thanks for the info sorner .Im not sure this 682 has ever been disassembled and cleaned before, its filthy. Im sure you all have seen much worse though.

Ive already done major cleaning forward of hydro .....

I've seen 5, none of them have been clean. They all look like that or worse.

Well, when it comes to dirty hydro units, yours is up there with some of the worst.:biggrin2: I know you are looking an engine, but while you are this far along with the rear, take a look at your trunion springs. Also research threads on rebuilding trunions. Oh, now is a good time to work on the steering column since it is real easy to get to. Be careful, when you take when this far apart, that brown truck will be coming to your house 2-3 times a week, just saying.:BlahBlah::BlahBlah:

Not to mention planning your days around tracking numbers. :biggrin2:

Thanks for the info i will check it out.

I know about that , between my 7.3 diesel and my onan 10CW generator I see it alot. :biggrin2:
On another note, is it normal to not be able to disengage the pto without the mower deck on? I have it off waiting for a new belt and no matter how i adjust it the pto keeps spinning. I'm thinking maybe with the mower deck and belt hooked up it may be enough resistance to stop it.

On a 682? NO. It has a PTO brake on it. If you can't adjust it so that the PTO stops, you likely have a bad bearing in the PTO. There is an air gap setting for the clutch. .015" I think.... Check the service manual to be sure. It also tells you how to adjust it, so you know if you are doing it right.

Sorry I meant that question for my 106.

It's not uncommon for the mechanical PTO to continue to spin when there's no load on it.

Just what I was hoping to hear, thank you

Matter of fact the PTO should stay in the "ON" position when not in use (no attachment needing it installed). Otherwise, you will tear up the brass button.

Well I finally tore the KT17 down out of the 682 last night and found the governor gear/weights came apart and that's what got ejected from the side of the block when the piston came back and smashed one of the weights into the case. It makes sense now what the previous owner told me happened, he was mowing his yard and then he heard a pop and then the engine went full throttle. He said he tried to cut it off but it over sped and threw a rod before he could. All the internals look good except for some scarring on the rod cap where the governor fly flyweight contacted it . sorry for no pics I will try and get some up soon.

Was it a series II? Which side of the crankcase got a window?

I’m betting the governor gear shaft came out of its bore.