Steering Wheel Removal
 

Hi all!

I'm new to OCC, actually I'm new to forums in general so please excuse any,,,,well you know.

I'm in the process of restoring a 1650 but am having trouble getting the steering wheel off. Common sense says, remove the nut and pull it off. Of course nothing is ever really that simple on a 40+ year old CC. I have pullers of all shapes and sizes but nothing seems to fit without damaging the wheel. I would really appreciate any advise.

Thanks, Tommy

Try this.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=222

Only use that if you want to replace the bearings in the column. Here's what I use:
Attachment 9505

I think one of the mods suggested this method using an air hammer and a long 3/8 bolt with the head cut off and nuts to help hold it into the hammer spring. I Loosened the steering wheel bolt but did not remove it completely. I loosened up to the point that it was flush with the top of the steering shaft. Inserted the bolt and hammer. While pulling upwards with one hand and then using the hammer to apply vibrations. I would rotate the wheel about 1/3 of the way then use the hammer again. The third try and the wheel popped loose. Unlike using a big hammer with repeated blows to the shaft that can damage bearings and bearing cups this won't do that.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...Image000-2.jpg

I've tried all of the above and the only way to get a real tuff one off without damaging the bearings is to go with Matt's idea and use a puller. Mine is a Snap-On and they run about 120 bucks but Harbor Freight has them for about 40 bucks.

I agree.. use matts idea. you can pick a cheap bolt puller up almost anywhere. a couple blocks of scrap wood and there you have it. gets the wheel off with no damage.

Hey Tommy, Welcome aboard. Those ideas might work, or you could use the right tool for the job! Wanna see one removed in under 5 mins.?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQJlvbw8NXQ

I have removed steering wheels from several different garden tractors. Oak's method is the one I have always used. Just be sure to "soak" the nut for several days before trying to remove it with PC Blaster. Apply marine grade "nev r sez" when you reinstall the steering wheel.

I only have 82 series tractors and an O...haven't touched the O yet. All of the steering shafts are hollow. What you can't see in the picture is that I'm using an additional round piece between the steering shaft and puller to prevent mushrooming the shaft.

I tried the tap and go and the air hammer method on my 1282 a few years back. I let it soak with PB Blaster for over a week and then had 6 teenaged boys pulling up on it while I tapped on it. This thing was NOT coming off. That’s when I bought this Snap-On Puller. I threaded the steering wheel nut flush with the top of the shaft so as not to damage the treads and after a few tight turns, it popped with no damage. I used the pop and go on my neighbors 100 and it worked. I also coat the shaft with Never-Seize before replacing the steering wheel.

Thanks for the help folks! The wheel is off and ready for rebuild.

Sorry about that, I'm cheap so the puller with a piece of 2x4 oak did the trick. It still took a little effort but patience paid off. I'll try to get some pics uploaded when the resto is completed.

I just bought a new wheel off eBay in case I busted my in removal. Some good ideas here - thnx. I think I will try the puller. Hammering on the steering column worries me. My C.C. is a relic after all. :)

OK, got the steering wheel off the 1650 and tore the assy apart and noticed the bearings and race were in pretty bad shape. I'm having trouble finding a rebuild kit for the ross steering box, does any one have a good source for a kit?

All in all the resto is moving along pretty good. When I'm finished with this one, it's on to the 105!

The bearing/race kit is IH-71930-C91, available at an CC dealer or the sponsors.

Thanks for the info. I did try the sponsers but no luck. Did a little more digging and discovered a CC dealer not too far from the house. Called them up and found out they have exactly what I need. Thanks again! :beerchug:

The rebuild was a success! We're back to one handed stearing now. A note on the sad side though: Will rebuilting the steering, I was also working on the rear fender, about three days in all. I would have to say it probably looks better than the day it left the factory. However, I got home after work to see it lying up-side-down in the drive, destroyed. We had a major shift in the wind that afternoon that was so strong it picked it up off the sawhorses and slammed it down about 6' away. Like I said, a total loss. I was so mad, I couldn't even cuss. Stripped and started over yesterday.

sorry the wind messed your fender up. We are getting some crazy winds out of the south east here today too, it's chilly and miserable compared to the weather yesterday.

Some folks in OK and northern TX are losing a whole lot more than fenders today...Some of the tornadoes and wildfires are really getting violent...Glad ya only lost a fender...sounds like you are going to fix it again?

If you don't like the weather, just hang on a minute, It'll change! Temps in the 90's yesterday, today is sweat shirt weather...

Yep, I stripped all the paint off and started again. It actually looks better now than it did before, perhaps the wind was a blessing. It's all beginning to come together nicely. Since this 1650 has a manual lift (not sure why, just the way I got it), I decided a spring assist wouldn't be a bad idea, so, I bought one today. Have to figure out how to put it on. I'm thinking all the holes are there so it should be pretty straight forward. I need to get some pics posted soon but I always get busy and involved and forget to take them.:beerchug:

Oh, about the wind.....a tree blew down in the backyard of my rent house, I now have a back porch where my kitchen used to be. This is going to slow down the restoration!

Here is a hydro kit for the 1650:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cub-Cadet-1650-H...-/220768964047