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  #1  
Old 03-23-2011, 03:27 PM
tommyf61 tommyf61 is offline
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Default Steering Wheel Removal

Hi all!

I'm new to OCC, actually I'm new to forums in general so please excuse any,,,,well you know.

I'm in the process of restoring a 1650 but am having trouble getting the steering wheel off. Common sense says, remove the nut and pull it off. Of course nothing is ever really that simple on a 40+ year old CC. I have pullers of all shapes and sizes but nothing seems to fit without damaging the wheel. I would really appreciate any advise.

Thanks, Tommy
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  #2  
Old 03-23-2011, 03:52 PM
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Try this.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=222
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:13 PM
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Only use that if you want to replace the bearings in the column. Here's what I use:
100_3557 (Custom).jpg
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:25 PM
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_DX3_ _DX3_ is offline
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I think one of the mods suggested this method using an air hammer and a long 3/8 bolt with the head cut off and nuts to help hold it into the hammer spring. I Loosened the steering wheel bolt but did not remove it completely. I loosened up to the point that it was flush with the top of the steering shaft. Inserted the bolt and hammer. While pulling upwards with one hand and then using the hammer to apply vibrations. I would rotate the wheel about 1/3 of the way then use the hammer again. The third try and the wheel popped loose. Unlike using a big hammer with repeated blows to the shaft that can damage bearings and bearing cups this won't do that.

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  #5  
Old 03-23-2011, 06:12 PM
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I've tried all of the above and the only way to get a real tuff one off without damaging the bearings is to go with Matt's idea and use a puller. Mine is a Snap-On and they run about 120 bucks but Harbor Freight has them for about 40 bucks.
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Old 03-24-2011, 12:12 AM
thetucks thetucks is offline
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I agree.. use matts idea. you can pick a cheap bolt puller up almost anywhere. a couple blocks of scrap wood and there you have it. gets the wheel off with no damage.
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  #7  
Old 03-24-2011, 07:11 PM
ctblaster ctblaster is offline
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Hey Tommy, Welcome aboard. Those ideas might work, or you could use the right tool for the job! Wanna see one removed in under 5 mins.?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQJlvbw8NXQ
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  #8  
Old 03-26-2011, 05:21 AM
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I have removed steering wheels from several different garden tractors. Oak's method is the one I have always used. Just be sure to "soak" the nut for several days before trying to remove it with PC Blaster. Apply marine grade "nev r sez" when you reinstall the steering wheel.
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  #9  
Old 03-27-2011, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt G. View Post
Only use that if you want to replace the bearings in the column. Here's what I use:
Attachment 9505
Do you use this same puller on 104 thru 147 ? If so how do you protect the plastic hub from damage using that type of puller set up. Also could get ugly using one for a Original due to a hollow steering shaft that will flare out at the threaded area. I have been using the PB and "tap & go" method for years but I also have a bearing separator/puller combo like your set up...great for low profile wheels that is close to the dash.
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:15 AM
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I only have 82 series tractors and an O...haven't touched the O yet. All of the steering shafts are hollow. What you can't see in the picture is that I'm using an additional round piece between the steering shaft and puller to prevent mushrooming the shaft.
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