Lifting the plow
 

Got the 3-point cat0 installed, the brinly 10 plow assembled...my question is: in the forum's collective experience, can I get by with just the spring assist jacked all the way tight, will an electric lift do it without burning up, or do I *have* to have a hydraulic lift? The tractor's a 128.
Thanks,
Brian

I think you will be fine with a spring assist, I have a 108 with a spring assist and a brinly plow and I can lift it easily.

Close inspection of the pix in the book reveal I put the spring assist bracket in wrong so I don't get the spring assist's full capability :Forgot:
...now its just a matter of taking the fender pan off to get at the spring assist bracket bolts :bash2:

128 wasn't offered with Cat 0... :bigthink:
Did you put an xtreme hitch on it?
Does it have e-lift on it now?

You will be fine with the spring assist.... DO NOT "jack it all the way tight". Only set it so there is little load on the e-lift (if that's what you have).


Fender pan removal shouldn't be necessary.

ccspecialties cat 0
I've got all the pieces for e-lift, just haven't bothered. If I read you right the spring should be set to almost completely counterbalance the plow weight?

ccspecialties 3pt is the xtreme hitch.

No, you want to have to lift some with a moldboard. Too much assist and the plow won't want to stay in the ground.

Now when you put the front blade on, or a deck, then yes. Basically you can set it to counter balance the weight. I don't set mine too tight. A lot of pressure on that one arm that the spring is hooked to.

I'll set it to the minimum tension that allows lifting the plow without throwing my back out...kind of a compromise with that cat0...reckon I'll replace the tensioning bolt with a high grade socket head cap screw and drill a hole in the cat0 plate to allow adjustment without pulling the bodywork...whaddya think? With a deck or a blade I don't need the assist...oh wait, there's still the matter of clearance to the cross shaft...maybe i'll fabricate a battery box to sit between the frame rails, ditch the fender assembly and go to a 70/100-style pan seat on a hairpin spring...

Oh... You'll like and want the assist even with a deck or a blade. That plow isn't that heavy comparatively.

I have no idea why you need to change all the stuff you mention. I'd use a hole saw and make a hole over the head of the bolt so you can access it from the rear. Unless it's installed wrong, that's all you should need to do.

I guess I should ask, is the an IH spring assist, or a Brinly? They are different.

It's an OEM IH spring assist, goes inside the left frame rail...problem is the extreme/ccspecialties cross shaft centerline is for all practical purposes level with the assist adjuster bolt CL and there's just room to get an open end wrench in if I lift the bodywork a couple inches...I've gotten so quick at pulling the body bolts and lifting it a couple inches it's not a big issue anymore...but since I have a pan seat, a hairpin pan-seat spring and it's base, and the ability to make my own footboards, and since the stock seat's foam is about gone and the vinyl is trashed, the only reason I would want to keep the OEM sheet metal is for the battery-tray functionality...at least until after plowing season that is...on the other hand I do know where I can snag a restored iron-rear cub cadet at a price I can live with...

Or you could just drill a mounting hole a little lower or higher and get the spring assist where it needs to be so it's not covered...... and buy a new seat. :RollEyes2: