Lifting the plow

[ka9egw]

Got the 3-point cat0 installed, the brinly 10 plow assembled...my question is: in the forum's collective experience, can I get by with just the spring assist jacked all the way tight, will an electric lift do it without burning up, or do I *have* to have a hydraulic lift? The tractor's a 128.
Thanks,
Brian

[olds45512]

I think you will be fine with a spring assist, I have a 108 with a spring assist and a brinly plow and I can lift it easily.

[ka9egw]

Close inspection of the pix in the book reveal I put the spring assist bracket in wrong so I don't get the spring assist's full capability
...now its just a matter of taking the fender pan off to get at the spring assist bracket bolts

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by ka9egw

Got the 3-point cat0 installed, the brinly 10 plow assembled...my question is: in the forum's collective experience, can I get by with just the spring assist jacked all the way tight, will an electric lift do it without burning up, or do I *have* to have a hydraulic lift? The tractor's a 128.
Thanks,
Brian

128 wasn't offered with Cat 0...
Did you put an xtreme hitch on it?
Does it have e-lift on it now?

You will be fine with the spring assist.... DO NOT "jack it all the way tight". Only set it so there is little load on the e-lift (if that's what you have).


Fender pan removal shouldn't be necessary.

[ka9egw]

ccspecialties cat 0
I've got all the pieces for e-lift, just haven't bothered. If I read you right the spring should be set to almost completely counterbalance the plow weight?

[J-Mech]

ccspecialties 3pt is the xtreme hitch.

No, you want to have to lift some with a moldboard. Too much assist and the plow won't want to stay in the ground.

Now when you put the front blade on, or a deck, then yes. Basically you can set it to counter balance the weight. I don't set mine too tight. A lot of pressure on that one arm that the spring is hooked to.

[ka9egw]

I'll set it to the minimum tension that allows lifting the plow without throwing my back out...kind of a compromise with that cat0...reckon I'll replace the tensioning bolt with a high grade socket head cap screw and drill a hole in the cat0 plate to allow adjustment without pulling the bodywork...whaddya think? With a deck or a blade I don't need the assist...oh wait, there's still the matter of clearance to the cross shaft...maybe i'll fabricate a battery box to sit between the frame rails, ditch the fender assembly and go to a 70/100-style pan seat on a hairpin spring...

[J-Mech]

Oh... You'll like and want the assist even with a deck or a blade. That plow isn't that heavy comparatively.

I have no idea why you need to change all the stuff you mention. I'd use a hole saw and make a hole over the head of the bolt so you can access it from the rear. Unless it's installed wrong, that's all you should need to do.

I guess I should ask, is the an IH spring assist, or a Brinly? They are different.

[ka9egw]

It's an OEM IH spring assist, goes inside the left frame rail...problem is the extreme/ccspecialties cross shaft centerline is for all practical purposes level with the assist adjuster bolt CL and there's just room to get an open end wrench in if I lift the bodywork a couple inches...I've gotten so quick at pulling the body bolts and lifting it a couple inches it's not a big issue anymore...but since I have a pan seat, a hairpin pan-seat spring and it's base, and the ability to make my own footboards, and since the stock seat's foam is about gone and the vinyl is trashed, the only reason I would want to keep the OEM sheet metal is for the battery-tray functionality...at least until after plowing season that is...on the other hand I do know where I can snag a restored iron-rear cub cadet at a price I can live with...

[J-Mech]

Or you could just drill a mounting hole a little lower or higher and get the spring assist where it needs to be so it's not covered...... and buy a new seat.