Well, it works
 

Now all you professional mechanics on here will tell me how this won't last 5 minutes. You'd say spend $200 to fix it right or scrap it---while you would not have fixed it should it have belonged to you. So, for the rest of us, here is a little repair job I just completed, on a budget:biggrin2:.

Dad built a 100 Johnny Cash special "butt buggy" about 30 or so years ago. Used it to ride around the farm, from the shop to the house, to the mailbox, etc. Finally he got a golf cart but this was still used to tow a trailer for yard clean up, etc. We don't really know where the engine came from, the driveshaft he bought from a customer before he retired, its on its 3rd set of rear tires, you get the picture. So the clutch in it had about a 1/4" or more of run out. I knew the 3 pin driver was a cobbled up mess. Two of the pins have been welded back in--and very badly I might add. But, they been working this long, so they are staying. The first clutch he put in it got ripped out in a genuine stock class lawn mower pull, We did have a friend that weighed close to 300 driving it.:biggrin2: So the current clutch disc was put in as a replacement--I imagine it was used and the holes were a little egg shaped.

Fast forward two decades until now. I had the 100 in the shop to replace a cracked head, new belt, and oil change. Decided it was time to do something about the clutch. Had a new clutch in stock for a template. I transfer punched the holes. Then I eyeballed them on the mill and installed new holes. Not sure of how hard the steel disc was (its butter by the way) nor if the lining was brittle or prone too coming unglued, so I plunged in new holes with a ball mill--figured this would be less stress on the clutch disc than using a regular end mill or a drill bit. I did have to open the holes up a little with a drill bit to allow for misalignment from the previously mentioned welding--I eyeballed all the holes within .010"--yes I checked them.

Anyway, its back together and works fine. Would I suggest trying to mow grass all year with it, probably not. Snaking logs, plowing, or a tractor pull--nope. Riding around at 1/2 throttle occasionally towing a trailer or lawn sized spreader---it will be just fine. I'm just not one for throwing a small fortune into a machine that isn't worth it.

Now that its back operable, it gets primary "butt buggy" duties while I get to do a "cheap rebuild" on a golf cart. Smokes so bad the EPA is about to give dad a warning. You think Kohler parts are high...….:bigeyes:

PS, I don't know if you can do this on any other of the gear drives, but I never removed the engine from the frame. Just lifted up and twisted/tilted while dad slid the damaged parts out.

Like ya said.. it works. Cant argue with that.. im mechanic over 25 years btw :biggrin2: :beerchug:

thats pretty near the top of the cheap-az list! I like it. if it works, it works.

Saving $$$ is just fine with me when you can improvise. Good work!

Hmmm 3 sets of tires over the years but no real fix to the clutch? :bigthink:

I bet he uses bailing wire to hold his tie rods on too Doc.

That is a nasty chunk out of that plate. Are you putting a clutch cover back on?

All the tires were off junkers. Originally had narrow tires. Went wider due to obvious increased load--especially if just one guy driving.

No baling wire on the tie rods. There is, however, a custom spring extender for the pedal.

The chunk out of the clutch is not in the area that does the pulling so it will be fine.

Clutch cover??? Johnny Cash Cadillacs don't use use no stinking clutch cover.:biggrin2: Now Christmas is coming of course and if a free one were to show up in the mailbox, well I could bolt it on I suppose......:bigthink:

Gotta do what you gotta do!

real men don't need clutch covers, or airbags! Just don't let your ponytail get long enough to get caught up in it!