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Old 11-27-2018, 09:44 PM
john hall's Avatar
john hall john hall is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 3,095
Default Well, it works

Now all you professional mechanics on here will tell me how this won't last 5 minutes. You'd say spend $200 to fix it right or scrap it---while you would not have fixed it should it have belonged to you. So, for the rest of us, here is a little repair job I just completed, on a budget.

Dad built a 100 Johnny Cash special "butt buggy" about 30 or so years ago. Used it to ride around the farm, from the shop to the house, to the mailbox, etc. Finally he got a golf cart but this was still used to tow a trailer for yard clean up, etc. We don't really know where the engine came from, the driveshaft he bought from a customer before he retired, its on its 3rd set of rear tires, you get the picture. So the clutch in it had about a 1/4" or more of run out. I knew the 3 pin driver was a cobbled up mess. Two of the pins have been welded back in--and very badly I might add. But, they been working this long, so they are staying. The first clutch he put in it got ripped out in a genuine stock class lawn mower pull, We did have a friend that weighed close to 300 driving it. So the current clutch disc was put in as a replacement--I imagine it was used and the holes were a little egg shaped.

Fast forward two decades until now. I had the 100 in the shop to replace a cracked head, new belt, and oil change. Decided it was time to do something about the clutch. Had a new clutch in stock for a template. I transfer punched the holes. Then I eyeballed them on the mill and installed new holes. Not sure of how hard the steel disc was (its butter by the way) nor if the lining was brittle or prone too coming unglued, so I plunged in new holes with a ball mill--figured this would be less stress on the clutch disc than using a regular end mill or a drill bit. I did have to open the holes up a little with a drill bit to allow for misalignment from the previously mentioned welding--I eyeballed all the holes within .010"--yes I checked them.

Anyway, its back together and works fine. Would I suggest trying to mow grass all year with it, probably not. Snaking logs, plowing, or a tractor pull--nope. Riding around at 1/2 throttle occasionally towing a trailer or lawn sized spreader---it will be just fine. I'm just not one for throwing a small fortune into a machine that isn't worth it.

Now that its back operable, it gets primary "butt buggy" duties while I get to do a "cheap rebuild" on a golf cart. Smokes so bad the EPA is about to give dad a warning. You think Kohler parts are high...….

PS, I don't know if you can do this on any other of the gear drives, but I never removed the engine from the frame. Just lifted up and twisted/tilted while dad slid the damaged parts out.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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