Quote:
Originally Posted by cooperino
I think Terry is correct.. I went online and found the testing procedures.. Easier than typing it all out... Hope this helps.
PROBLEM 1: NO CHARGE TO BATTERY
TEST 1: trace B+ lead from rectifier-regulator to key switch, or other accessible connection. Disconnect it from switch or connection. Connect an ammeter from loose end of B+ lead to positive terminal of battery. Connect DC voltmeter from loose end of B+ lead to negative terminal of battery. With engine running at 3,600 rpm, read voltage on voltmeter.
If voltage is 13.8 volts or more, place a minimum load of 5 amps* on battery to reduce voltage. Observe ammeter.
*NOTE: turn on lights, if 60 watts or more. Or place a 2.5 ohm, 100 watt resistor across battery terminals.
CONCLUSION 1: if voltage is 13.8 to 14.7 and charge rate increases when load is applied, the charging system is okay and battery was fully charged.
If voltage is less than 13.8 or charge rate does not increase when load is applied, test stator (test 2, 3, and 4 below).
TEST 2:Remove connector from rectifier-regulator. With engine running at 3,600 rpm, measure AC voltage across stator leads using an AC voltmeter.
CONCLUSION 2: if voltage is 28 volts or more, stator is okay. Rectifier-regulator is faulty. Replace the rectifier-regulator.
If voltage is less than 28 volts, stator is probably faulty and should be replaced. Test stator further using an ohmmeter (tests 3 & 4 below).
TEST 3: with engine stopped, measure the resistance across stator leads using an ohmmeter.
CONCLUSION 3: if resistance is .064/0.2 ohms, stator is okay.
If resistance is infinite ohms, stator is open. Replace stator.
TEST 4: with engine stopped, measure the resistance from each stator lead to ground using an ohmmeter.
CONCLUSION 4: if resistance is infinite ohms (meaning that there is no continuity), the stator is okay (not shorted to ground).
If resistance (or continuity) is measured, the stator leads are shorted to ground. Replace stator.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Bedell
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I did not have a ton of time tonight and did not want to fire up the engine but I did try a couple of the tests above:
- I already essentially did Test 2 and get 47-48V. Comments here are that is too high, but the test states that anything above 28V is passing so I'm not sure how to interpret this.
- I performed Test 3 and got 0.1-0.2 ohms on my meter. That seems to be a pass. My meter only reads out to xxx.x, not x.xxx, so I would not be able to read out 0.064. But it definitely was not open line (OL).
- I performed Test 4 on both AC leads and my meter read O.L. As far as I know, that is the same as infinite resistance. If that is true, that test seems to pass.
The link seems to be a graphical explanation of Test 3.
I will redo all of this tomorrow when I have more time, but wanted to get a response back. Tomorrow I'll set up a ground wire, right after I replace a bad fuel line that suddenly started leaking.
Thanks!