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  #1  
Old 08-13-2014, 03:16 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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My time is worth too much money to take the time to clean a bolt that can be replaced for such small cost. I understand that some people want the IH headed bolt, but so far.... I have never seen a case where it made a difference on the value of the machine, or won more trophy's for having the original hardware. (On a Cub Cadet) If you know of a case where it did matter, I'll bow out of that statement.
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Old 08-13-2014, 03:26 PM
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j4c11 j4c11 is offline
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You can pull the rust off using an electrolysis bath, all you need is a plastic container and a power source. Instructions on setting one up are plentiful online. In your case, you can put all the bolts in a metal tray , wire up the tray and do them all at once. Just don't wire it backwards, it will have the opposite effect of rusting them more(and quickly may I add).
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Old 08-13-2014, 04:53 PM
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I've used a tumbler for cleaning gun brass, I just filled it with sandblasting sand and it worked pretty good. I'm with j mech though, I just use new bolts on my cubs that way if I ever have to work on it I don't have to worry about hurting the bolts.
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Old 08-13-2014, 05:28 PM
cc_bob cc_bob is offline
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Not quick but very cheap and EASY, just mix up some molasses and water and let them sit for a week. It won't remove the plating or grease but it will remove all of the rust.

Details here..
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=26163
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1872 (I call her Vera), 782D, 154 Loboy (w/tiller, 3260 deck, and front blade), 3-1650s, 2-1000s, 149, 147, 106, 1810, Farmall Cub, Haban sickle bar (not mounted), No. 2 trailer and several parts tractors.
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Old 08-24-2014, 09:30 AM
Hand_108 Hand_108 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cc_bob View Post
Not quick but very cheap and EASY, just mix up some molasses and water and let them sit for a week. It won't remove the plating or grease but it will remove all of the rust.

Details here..
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=26163


Molasses works AWESOME!!!! But it does take a long time. I used a 50gal plastic trash can and did a bunch of stuff to test it. My "tank" sat out side about 6+ months, froze, thawed, froze, thawed. Started it in Oct and pulled stuff out April-May. Was AMAZED!!!! And I would do it again in a second!!!
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Old 08-24-2014, 12:33 PM
cc_bob cc_bob is offline
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Originally Posted by Hand_108 View Post
Molasses works AWESOME!!!! But it does take a long time. I used a 50gal plastic trash can and did a bunch of stuff to test it. My "tank" sat out side about 6+ months, froze, thawed, froze, thawed. Started it in Oct and pulled stuff out April-May. Was AMAZED!!!! And I would do it again in a second!!!
Glad to hear someone else has tried this.
The warmer it is outside the better it works. I usually leave stuff in for a week, take it out and pressure wash it, and put it in for another week. After the second week it's usually completely rust free. I haven't tried it in the winter, afraid my tank would split if it froze.
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1872 (I call her Vera), 782D, 154 Loboy (w/tiller, 3260 deck, and front blade), 3-1650s, 2-1000s, 149, 147, 106, 1810, Farmall Cub, Haban sickle bar (not mounted), No. 2 trailer and several parts tractors.
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  #7  
Old 08-24-2014, 08:26 PM
Hand_108 Hand_108 is offline
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Originally Posted by cc_bob View Post
Glad to hear someone else has tried this.
The warmer it is outside the better it works. I usually leave stuff in for a week, take it out and pressure wash it, and put it in for another week. After the second week it's usually completely rust free. I haven't tried it in the winter, afraid my tank would split if it froze.


Yes, I hear it works better when warmer. I was not thinking about that when I did it. I just wanted to do it. I kind of forgot about it and then next thing I knew it was winter and it was frozen solid. I wasnt worried about it splitting as it was sitting outside by my garage. If it did, it would have been no worse than when I dumped it out. What I want to get is one of those BIG 250 gallon totes on a pallet with the wire around it with a drain on the bottom and try even bigger parts. And a 2nd one for an electrolis tank. But if I do, it will be started early March and not pulled untill Oct. The wheels I did were BAD and they came out looking really good. Longer they sit, better/cleaner/rust removed they will be. Most of my projects are never "gotta get it done now" projects, so sitting for 6+ months to soak/derust is no biggie to me.

Glad to hear im not the only crazy one out there...heheheheeh

John
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:20 PM
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drglinski drglinski is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
My time is worth too much money to take the time to clean a bolt that can be replaced for such small cost. I understand that some people want the IH headed bolt, but so far.... I have never seen a case where it made a difference on the value of the machine, or won more trophy's for having the original hardware. (On a Cub Cadet) If you know of a case where it did matter, I'll bow out of that statement.
You mean when I repainted my blade last summer and replaced the carriage bolts on the wear strip with Home Depot specials it lessened the value of it? this is awful news.......
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:45 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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You mean when I repainted my blade last summer and replaced the carriage bolts on the wear strip with Home Depot specials it lessened the value of it? this is awful news.......
LOL! Yes Daniel, your blade is now worth exactly $7.38 less that it was before.
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Old 08-14-2014, 09:07 PM
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LOL! Yes Daniel, your blade is now worth exactly $7.38 less that it was before.
haha
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