how are the 1782's

[CADplans]

Originally Posted by cub1782

Yeah I'm having electrical problems with mine.

I will come pick it up if the problem is too extensive!!

We all know these tractors need new owners periodically!!


I got a buddy that's good with "war's".

[racenitro]

I have heard that an owner or two has changed from plastic to metal. Problem is that the dash needs changing and it has tilt wheel.

I have had a lot of overheating problems with mine and have talked to a number of owners that have had similar problems. The location of the radiator is not conducive to good air flow. Also, in the summer, there is a lot of heat comming out of the opening son the dash due to the radiator being right under the dash. The plastic is a huge issue and some panels are nla. THer are two different head light configurations. One uses sealed beams and the other uses the replacable bulbs. Never had any electrical problems. They do ride much nicer than the other supers due to the adjustable seat, its position and the tilt wheel. The steering is much better also.
The hydraulic valve makes it very difficult to find a dual setup. They are sandwiched together with small pieces of tubing in between.
THe first thing to go on the side panels are the mounting tabs. They are a joke as they either break off or wear down so they don't hold the panels. The front grille;s usually are all broken up because they are the first on the scene and can't take much abuse and it it is cold no abuse! The hood hinge is prone to breaking also. The other items that is a PIA is the electric shut off. If it wears out you are out of luck. There is no driect replacement. There are units on the market that are similar but not a direct bolt on. The previous owner of mine did not realize that the shutoff solenoid had faile dand tried to start it for ayear. Poured ether to it and ruined the rings. It has less than 900 hours. When I got it, I figured that out right away and got it running the first day.
An optimum would be a 1772 with a 1782 front axle and rear fender pan. I can make it without the tilt wheel. Mine is in the barn on my farm where it has been for 2 years. Prefer my 1572's and 2072's.

The cooling problem is why it is parked. Cleaned he radiator, flushed the sstem, new thermostat and new water pump. Nothing left to change but had NO effect on the overheating. Will run for about 45 minutes and then over heats. let idle for 20 minutes and you can get another 20 minutes out of it so it just sits. I can hop on my 1572's and mow all day. Never get past 2/3 mark on the gauge. I mow about 5 acres at the farm ever time I mow so I need dependability.

[Barnabas Collins]

Sounds like you have a busted head gasket, either causing or caused by the overheating. I made certain on my Honda by putting my shop air hose to the spark plug holes one at a time and looked for bubbles in the radiator, and also figured where the break was that way before i took the head off.
Both my 2182 gas and 1782 diesel have never gotten hot.
BOTH of them though have the balky starter. It will just click the first 3-4 times then crank like a new one. Niether seems to be getting any worse so I have just ignored it, but at least they are easy to take off if they do need repair. Not the engine lifting excercise of the 400 series Deeres.

[racenitro]

Replaced that also. The biggest contributor is the location of the radiator. It is not conducive to good air flow. THe side panels have a screen on each side but that is small when compared to the area of the radiator.

[Barnabas Collins]

If it is a design defect I wonder what they changed on my two that never overheat?