I started out replacing the hydro gasket.... - Page 2

1cub2cadet3 · #11 09-26-2009, 07:24 AM

Here's a picture of the repaired crack. It's pretty substantial and adjacent to the rear mule/snowblower attachment point.

Matt G. · #12 09-26-2009, 08:04 AM

I would not add plates there...it would throw off the driveshaft alignment. Also, I would grind down the weld where the engine bolts to the frame, as it sits directly on the frame with no gap between it and the frame .

1cub2cadet3 · #13 09-26-2009, 04:59 PM

Makes good sense. I'll grind the weld and keep the original alignment.
Also, I did some research on the lacquer compatibility with urethane. From what I've learned they should NOT be used together. While urethane paints seem to have a great reputation for durability the combination of paint and hardeners make a toxic combination. From what I've read a paint mask/respirator won't handle the toxicity. Guess I'll use acrylic enamel. Does this sound right to those of you who are more experienced with automotive type paints?
I have an Apollo HPLV setup but it's been used exclusively for wood projects. I'm not familiar with with automotive paint products sprayed with HPLV. Any insights?

Matt G. · #14 09-26-2009, 09:27 PM

Once again, talk to the place where you got the paint...when I bought mine, they gave me a spec sheet with suggested gun settings and things like that. You should really have a fresh air supply anytime you are painting with hardener. I bought one on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/Supplied-fresh-A...d=p3286.c0.m14) when I painted my 100...I was pretty impressed with it.

Acrylic enamel paint systems have hardener, too. You really aren't going to be able to get away from hardener unless you use rattle cans, which I don't recommend.

1cub2cadet3 · #15 09-28-2009, 07:19 PM

Thanks for the URL, Matt. I ordered the fresh air supply gear and made a trip to the paint store. They printed a spec sheet for me. I'm going to spray with a traditional compressor set-up (that I already have) to avoid buying additional HPLV tips. Again, thanks for the help.

Matt G. · #16 09-28-2009, 08:11 PM

Another cool thing is, you can use that for sandblasting too... and anything else with nasty chemicals. It's certainly cheaper than hospital bills, ain't it?

1cub2cadet3 · #17 10-06-2009, 08:52 PM

I received he fresh air system and sprayed the parts with a urethane fill primer over the self-etching primer I applied earlier. The fresh air system is a terrific bargain. It works flawlessly. Thanks, Matt!
I'm thinking of doing some assembly before starting the first color coat. I'm using PPG paint.

Matt G. · #18 10-06-2009, 09:23 PM

When I did my 100, I painted just about everything individually and then assembled it, and gave it a final coat to even things out and touch up scratches. I was worried about uncovered primer rusting through, so I wanted to make sure everything was well-coated. I'm not sure that was the best way though. You really have to think about how some things go together. The clutch was difficult to put together after painting. I would for sure put the PTO clutch lever in the grille casting before painting, something I did not do that made it really hard to reinstall thanks to my thicker-than-factory paint job.