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#1
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In my quest for power steering on my 1811 it has been suggested that I use the spindles from an 1862. Does anyone know if they will fit my 1811 front axle or do I need the whole axle and spindle? Also, if I do have to buy the axle will it change the height or any other dimensions on my 1811?
Thanks Rudy
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1811 Hydro "Failing to prepare is preparing to fail". ![]() |
#2
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You will need the whole axle, as they are completely different designs. An 1862 axle will not change the height much at all. You will have to remove the bolts that allow you to adjust out the axle slop though, as the 1862 axle will interfere with them.
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#3
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I believe this axle is desirable is because it is considered a "Super Steer" axle.
Here is a photo of my 1861, probably the same as a 1862!!?? ![]() ![]() |
#4
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Will my 1811 axle bolt work with the 1862 axle? I see the 1862 bolts on ebay but they don't look any different than my 1811 bolt.
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1811 Hydro "Failing to prepare is preparing to fail". ![]() |
#5
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Same bolt and same size.
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Chip T. Drexel NC |
#6
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The axle is what they call the super steer. There are a few of us that have done the conversion on an 82 series. I myself have done it on my 1211, 1806 is next, and SamMac did it to a 1210 If I remember correctly.
We have found that there seems to be a cut off period on the cyclopes, probably early and late production years. some had the raised axle and some have the regular one. I have three axles here one from a 1864,1861, and a 1862. The one from the 1862 is a regular and other are the raised. either one will work. There is enough adjustment on your deck and mule drive to make the change. If your frame has the axle snugger bolts, you will either have to remove the mount they are in or relieve the axle. I relieved the axle on my 1211 and it is fine. I think it has probably seen more abuse than most ever would.
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Sold everything but one. 1211-snow pusher, cab ,54 inch plow, loaded tires (all 4) Gilson wheel weights, X-trac fronts- soon to have power steering and dual hydraulics |
#7
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Rudy
As Joe said I did replace the axle on my 1210, used one from a 1440. My frame did not have the snubber bolts. It was a bolt in on the 1210. I put in a rebuilt with the thrust washer 3 turn steering box also from the 1440. Found a double D shaft connector from a race supply shop and a section of muffler pipe to make the Cyclops steering box work in the older style tractors. Also put some roller thrust washers under the spindles. I like them Matt has a different opinion so we don't need to get into this again. LOL. Anyway it's about as close to power sterring as your gonna get. ![]() Sam |
#8
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What are you referring to on the axle snugers? If you are talking about the bolts that take up slack in the axle my 1810 has them as do all of the 1860's and 1862's I have and they are all the same distance apart. Why would you have to do away with them? What do you mean by relieving them?
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Chip T. Drexel NC |
#9
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The piece "small plate/tab" that the bolt threads through to snubb the axle is exactly what we are talking about. I don't have pictures of both of them handy rite now. True they are the same distance apart from center, but on the older 82 series frames they are on the inside of the axle channel and on the Cyclopes's they are on the outside of the channel. With the way the newer axle sweeps forward the ones on the inside of the channel are in the way.
To relieve my axle I simply grabbed it in mill vice and milled a groove wide/deep enough to clear them. It will seem like you are removing a lot , but the axle is thinner out on the end then what you will have make your relief. If you plan to mill a relief, I would suggest some type of insert style carbide cutter. That cast is hard on regular cutters.
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Sold everything but one. 1211-snow pusher, cab ,54 inch plow, loaded tires (all 4) Gilson wheel weights, X-trac fronts- soon to have power steering and dual hydraulics |
#10
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I undersand what you are saying now. I never looked that close at the 1810 I have. If the bots where removed wouldn't there be enough room? And if the tab itself is in the way couldn't you just remove it and grind it down smooth inside the channel?
I have one of these axles on my 149 and it is tight and they never had any adjusting bolts, not to mention no way of using the center pin that you can tighten. Unless someone has a suggestion for that as that would be nice to use to keep it tight inside the channel.
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Chip T. Drexel NC |
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