782 Series II Crankcase filled with Fuel

105_Tom · #1 03-11-2012, 08:22 PM

Hey All-

I found my winter aquisition - a CCC 782 - filled with fuel the other day after running it for a short time to exercise it. I pulled the carb again today and drained the crankcase; the intake manifold was dry, but the cylinders had been full of fuel just like the crankcase was. It was soo bad that it was dripping out of the front seal at the PTO and coming out of the muffler! I'm wondering about the fuel pump as a culprit. I had to clean the carb when I got the tractor, and other than getting the old fuel out and de-gunking it, the needle and seat were in good shape and seemed to pass the seal test. I would have expected to see fuel pooled in the intake if the needle/seat was the entry point, but I have read here that the fuel pumps can go bad and cause the motor to fill with fuel as well.

Any thoughts on what to check and how to check the fuel pump? Are there rebuild kits? I have not run the tractor with the oil fouled, so I hope the bottom end will be ok. I plan to run it for 30ish mins after I get the fuel issue resolved and then change the oil again.

cuber · #2 03-11-2012, 08:30 PM

Something is messed up in the carb. Check the needle and the float again. When everything is installed hold the carb upside down with the bowl off and see if the float is level, when the carb is upside down and if the float is down below level you will have to pry a little tab where the needle attaches to the float to get the float to sit level, try setting the float so it sits a little higher than level when carb is upside down. Also check the float and shake it and listen if you can hear fuel inside of it, if it sounds like something is in it then the float is bad.

R Bedell · #3 03-11-2012, 08:36 PM

You could also have a bad fuel pump, leaking diaphragm.

ol'George · #4 03-11-2012, 09:30 PM

I have seen quite a few fuel pumps with bad diaphragms and a few ruined engines because of it, and not limited to small engines.
Cars/trucks that had mechanical pumps were @ risk.
it's either the pump or the carb.

maddog784 · #5 03-11-2012, 10:58 PM

My vote is for the fuel pump - especially if the intake manifold is dry. If you want to do some testing, you can bypass the fuel pump (make sure the tank is topped off) and just let the tank gravity feed into the carb. If it fills up the crankcase again, it was the carb. I was reading earlier today about how the fuel pumps on those kohlers go out and fill up the crankcase. IDK about the rebuild kit, but I just picked up a fuel pump for $35. I don't know the price of a rebuild kit, but it might just be easier to get a new pump. Just my $0.02

Good Luck!

Nate

john hall · #6 03-18-2012, 07:08 PM

Those KT17 engines were notorious for that problem. The dealer my dad worked for had quite a few customers to blow those engines in 682 and 782's. One customer always checked his oil before running the mower---he caught it with gas in the crankcase twice. While I don't know for certain, we heard those engines were part of the reason Deere left Kohler for Kawasaki.

clint · #7 03-18-2012, 09:26 PM

The KT 17 series I (one) sure gave a bad name to both John Deere, and Cub Cadet, and once the rumor starts to cycle it grows, and grows. However I own a Kohler KT 17 series II (two) and it is one of the best motors I have ever owned period if not the best ( I have a magnum 18 also) and that's coming from someone who prefers B&S overall ....

Quote:

Originally Posted by john hall

Those KT17 engines were notorious for that problem. The dealer my dad worked for had quite a few customers to blow those engines in 682 and 782's. One customer always checked his oil before running the mower---he caught it with gas in the crankcase twice. While I don't know for certain, we heard those engines were part of the reason Deere left Kohler for Kawasaki.

105_Tom · #8 03-18-2012, 11:39 PM

Well, I pulled the fuel pump; didn't find anything too indicitave of torn diaphrams or gaskets, so I put it back together and pulled the carb apart again. THERE I found more gunk that must have come from the bottom of the fuel tank after the initial run time from when it had been sitting for the 2+ years. I cleaned everything again, and have put almost an hour on it letting the boys drive it around the yard at 1/3 throttle (they were happy to help) with no additional issues. Like was said, I check the oil before every start and it has been fine to this point. Hopefully, it was just a case of running out all the sluge gas and crap from the out-of-service period. I really do like the Series II thus far, I can't wait for the grass to grow a bit so I can put a load on her and see how she does.

Thanks for all the input, hopefully smooth sailing from here!!

john hall · #9 03-19-2012, 07:32 PM

I talked to my dad and he said the normal repair for them was to put a kit in the carb and to add an in-line fuel filter. For extra precaution he suggested a in-line cut off valve if the one under the tank is not readily acessible. They also suggested to their customers to not only check the oil level but to smell it as well. If you only have a slight leak and the motor is using/leaking a bit of oil, it is a little hard to detect just by looking at the level.