My 1650's Maiden Mow and observations

[Methos]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Hey Duke

Checked out the Ryder site, This is what you need on those O's

http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ry...oductDetail.do

I like the stacks but not in store for these O's

[samiam44]

Sounds like you got most of it done.

I would pull the deck off, and remove the mule drive. For the belt- it depends on if you have a 4.25 or 5.0 inch OD pulley on which belt it takes. For the 4.25, depending on serial number of the cub- I think it's a 3/8X81. You can reuse the old one till a new one comes in.
I would take a 1/2 bar stock and replace the pivot bar on the mule drive.17-4 is kinda exotic for the job.. but it will work!

There should be a spring that tensions on the rhs idler. Both pulleys are available at NAPA cheap if they are needed($8.39 each?).

WIth your fab background you can definately make the idler arms work. If you need a new spring- $20 for a CC supplier. The rattle. Originally, there should be a spring washer underneath the self-locking nut on the spring loaded idler arm that holds the adjuster gauge bar on(??). Mine was shot, so I took 2 small orings and threw them on either side then put the self-locking nut back.
No rattle.
PTO is most likely a bad switch- $20-25 from a Sten supplier(napa or any autoparts store). Most napa stores carry the lights.
No seat switch that I'm aware of on a QL, but you can definately add one if you like.

Is the hydro leak around the filter or the valves on top?

Michael

Get you a fresh oil filter, hydro filter and some oil for it too!

[maddog784]

I'll give my $0.02:

1. SWEET

2. Is it creeping when you use the brake pedal to return to neutral or when you use the lever to return to neutral? If it's the lever, the linkage needs adjusted - pretty simple really, just a couple of jam nuts and twist a linkage rod. If it's creeping after using the brake pedal to return to neutral, look at the service manual and see how it tells you to fix it.

10. These things are built like a tank. Dad said when he first got his 1650 he hit the base of a metal post that had been set in concrete. Killed the engine on the spot. He said he was worried, but everything started back up and he kept mowing. I'm sure the blades were a pain to take off that time. Can't believe we sent that one down the road.

12. If you rebuilt the transmission, another spot to check might be the suction line for the hydro pump. There's a crush ring in there that's only supposed to be used once, but I've had luck keeping them for more than one install. Also, on the bottom of the pump, there's a fitting with an O-ring that screws into the pump. Might want to check the O-ring and the flare fitting. There is also a metal cap that goes over the front of the pinion shaft - that might be getting loose (that's what happened to me). You can truly fix this with a hammer.

Congrats on the 1650 - sounds like you need to get another tractor for yourself so the wife won't take yours! It would be hard to give up the 1650, though.

Cheers!

Nate

[machinehead323]

Thanks for all the info. 17-4 I overkill but it is the only 1/2 stock I have laying around. Do you have a napa part number for the pulleys? There like $17 at cub cadet specialties. There light are a lil pricy at $10 compared to others but it would all be in one order. I'm happy I can jump off the seat to pick ip something in the yard, such a plus. My dad would bypass that "feature" on his mowers. I have a 5" pully on it now. I didn't have any of the wavy washer things on the lever. That bolt was all worn too and need to replace it while I'm at it. Being a machinist it's hard to overlook all this worn steel.

Eta I haven't cleaned up on the hydro to much. There are two nipples on top that can be pushed down. There is no oil around there. It's not coming from the back plate. Around the internal break cylinder I guess u would call it seems moist. When i push in the break. I can see movement I hydro fluid around the seal. Nothin coming out per say but it is wet there.

[samiam44]

Your in the wrong section to find accessory questions. There is a FAQ which can help you on which belt to use.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=17059


Are you going to bush the holes or weld/braze and ream?

Sounds like maybe a seal for the brakes. There is stuff here on ppl welding up the linkage pieces(and replacing the 2 springs) for the hydro.

Michael

[FFGino]

I broke the mule drive belt on my 1650 on a Sat. afternoon when my cub dealer was closed last year. I went to a local hardware store to get a blue belt to finish up with. Before I paid for the belt, I asked if the belt would take the 2-plane use that the cub requires. The salesman, an older gent who has owned the business for years, told me that most lawn mower and fractional-horsepower belts are only good for the singular plane use that most machines run them in. He said that he wouldn't guarantee that the belt would hold up changing planes via the mule drives.

I waited 'til monday, when the cub dealer opened, and purchased the proper belt the first time. I couldn't see spending money for something that would only last a few rounds and then having to buy the right belt to finish up anyways. Just my

FFGino. Happy Cubbing!!