Cub Cadet 127 transmission failure

[Methos]

Originally Posted by brother

Thanks ... I found the part number for the pin at

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=c...&dn=0019900010

as Cub Cadet IH-19837-R2 (replaces IH-19837- R1) Pin, 1/4 X 1-1/2 Dowel ... however they want $5.76 each.

I will search around locally and see what i can find.

I hope i can drive the pin in with a punch without having to buy a special coil pin driving tool ... we shall see!

Installing with a punch shouldn't be a problem.

The cost at the dealer is painful but if your in a pinch you might be able to over look the cost to get back up and running. I've had to do that before and after it's running again you forget about it, well right after you place your order so you'll always have some on hand.

[Matt G.]

That is not the correct pin for the rear coupler...that pin is for the front coupler.

You need a 1/4" x 1.5" coiled spring pin. (715-3006 from Cub Cadet) If you have multiple tractors, it makes sense to buy a bag of them from McMaster-Carr. They are much cheaper in bulk.

All you need to install it is a brass drift rod and a hammer. Oil the pin before installation and it will go in much easier.

[brother]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

That is not the correct pin for the rear coupler...that pin is for the front coupler.

You need a 1/4" x 1.5" coiled spring pin. (715-3006 from Cub Cadet) If you have multiple tractors, it makes sense to buy a bag of them from McMaster-Carr. They are much cheaper in bulk.

All you need to install it is a brass drift rod and a hammer. Oil the pin before installation and it will go in much easier.

with much thanks ... especially the tip about oiling the pin. I called a tractor dealer on the phone who said he has the 1/4 x 1.5 "coiled" spring pin in stock ... hopefully I will have it before the weekend ...

also, thanks again to everybody else who has been helping me

[brother]

I bought a 1/4" x 1 1/2" coil tension spring from a dealer for $2.00, and was able to install it effortlessly. I slid a 1/4" bolt through the holes to keep the coupling and shaft holes lined up, rotated the coupling assembly 180 degrees so that the head of the bolt was at the exit end topside and tapped the pin in from the bottom side with a long 14" punch until the pin pushed the bolt through the other side (I learned that bolt trick from another web page). The pin fits snug with about 1/4" protruding equally out each end (to balance the weight of the pin). I was so happy when it readily pushed through but snuggly!

I did not have to split the tractor as I had plenty of room … actually, I was able to start the pin by first pushing on it by hand until it stuck in place allowing me to be hands free and was then able to tap on it with a hammer to get it started far enough to start using the punch to drive it home.
I also bought some sheets of 1/16" thick vegetable fiber gasket material so I can make gaskets for the transmission top plate and rear end plate after I drain the transmission oil and put in a new filter.

Again, I am grateful for everybody's help … I am sure I will be leaning on you guys from time to time as issues arise. For example, I am now going to post a new question on a new thread about a problem I am having with a frozen zirk grease fitting.

[Methos]

Originally Posted by brother

I bought a 1/4" x 1 1/2" coil tension spring from a dealer for $2.00, and was able to install it effortlessly. I slid a 1/4" bolt through the holes to keep the coupling and shaft holes lined up, rotated the coupling assembly 180 degrees so that the head of the bolt was at the exit end topside and tapped the pin in from the bottom side with a long 14" punch until the pin pushed the bolt through the other side (I learned that bolt trick from another web page). The pin fits snug with about 1/4" protruding equally out each end (to balance the weight of the pin). I was so happy when it readily pushed through but snuggly!

I did not have to split the tractor as I had plenty of room … actually, I was able to start the pin by first pushing on it by hand until it stuck in place allowing me to be hands free and was then able to tap on it with a hammer to get it started far enough to start using the punch to drive it home.
I also bought some sheets of 1/16" thick vegetable fiber gasket material so I can make gaskets for the transmission top plate and rear end plate after I drain the transmission oil and put in a new filter.

Again, I am grateful for everybody's help … I am sure I will be leaning on you guys from time to time as issues arise. For example, I am now going to post a new question on a new thread about a problem I am having with a frozen zirk grease fitting.

Awesome news!

[ACecil]

Originally Posted by Methos

Awesome news!

I agree!

[Donovan M.]

i was going to say i needed a new charge pump like my 1250 did.

[bkw3614]

I like that bumper. It looks like it was fabricated to duplicate the look of the front bumper from an 1957-early 1955 Chevrolet/GMC pick-up. Very cool!