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#1
06-02-2012, 10:04 PM
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KT Engines
I now have two 82 series cubs, a 682 and a 782, both with engine issues. I believe both are series I engines. Is the only real difference between the series I and II the fact that the series I does not pressurized the rod bearings and the low pump pressure? It seems that the major issue with these engines is that they throw rods. Does the series II have this problem as well? As, what about the M18's? My dad recently picked up a 400 JD, that I believe has a k532 kohler twin. How does that engine relate to those mentioned above. Sorry for all the questions but I haven't dealt with these twins yet. And the deere is only passing through lol
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--- 5x Originals, one with rear PTO, 70, 2x 100's, one w/ creeper,2x 102's, 2x 122 w/creeper and rear pto, 2x 123's, 105, 125 w/ aux hyd,2x 73's, 126, 2x 147, 86, 2x 108's, 129, 2x 149's, 169, 3x 800's, 2x 1100's, 1250, 3x 1650's, 682, 2x 782's, 782D, 982 w/60" Haban, 1872 w/ Haban deck 2 Rear Tillers, 1 Snowblower, #1 cart and 2x #2 cart IH/Cub Cadet 79C Chipper 526 Front Tine Tiller Brinly plow, disk, grader blade 
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#2
06-02-2012, 10:30 PM
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Series II and mag engines have full pressure oiling, making for long life if treated properly.
The mag 18 is the best of the lot with Mahl Forged pistons,stronger/thicker webbing in the block, electronic ignition, 30* valve angle and added strength in the crank taper area. They would 'prolly still be making them if it were not for emission standards. The M-18 was the last attempt of correcting weak/problem areas. The Series 1 is not worth rebuilding and many parts are not available. Unless a person is restoring a period correct restoration, a M-18 is the best bolt in replacement.
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#3
06-02-2012, 10:41 PM
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Can you change the pump cam and crank in a series I to make it equivalent to a series II? I got a lot of series I parts here
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--- 5x Originals, one with rear PTO, 70, 2x 100's, one w/ creeper,2x 102's, 2x 122 w/creeper and rear pto, 2x 123's, 105, 125 w/ aux hyd,2x 73's, 126, 2x 147, 86, 2x 108's, 129, 2x 149's, 169, 3x 800's, 2x 1100's, 1250, 3x 1650's, 682, 2x 782's, 782D, 982 w/60" Haban, 1872 w/ Haban deck 2 Rear Tillers, 1 Snowblower, #1 cart and 2x #2 cart IH/Cub Cadet 79C Chipper 526 Front Tine Tiller Brinly plow, disk, grader blade
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#4
06-03-2012, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
The crank/rods/pistons have to go as an assy from Series 2 or mag. I'm thinking possibly the pump is the same, but the relief is upped spring pressure. The webbing in the block is less and smaller, on a 1 Also thinking you can't use a magnum cam because it don't have a lobe for the breaker points.( can't remember for sure) Thinking a mag crank has to use a mag flywheel remembering the taper was bigger. You would have to do a lot of comparing and parts number lookup, possibly it could be done. The Series 1's I've seen usually had a rod through the block making it a junk block, so why bother. There a lot of series 1's still running if treated properly, not run on an angle, and started /run slowly till oil gets splashed into the rod journals.
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