147 steering issues - Page 2

clay1811/44c · #11 07-09-2012, 11:06 PM

John my dad gave me his 1811 and the steering was off center. It had 1 1/8 turn one way and 1 7/8 the other, roughly. Checked around on this site and found some answers. First I found the toe in was off by a 1/2". Next thing I found was the steering knuckle bolts weren't tight. Bolt was turning in the sleeve and not the sleeve turning in the axel. Also tightened up the pivot bolt for the axel. Then I tweeked the pin in the steering box trying to get as much play out of it as I dare. After that was all done I adjusted the link between the steering box and knuckle. Found it was set longer than it needed to be.
Looking at things I noticed two balljoints had been replaced. One on the steering link and one on the drag link. In talking to my dad he had replaced both those joints. The new joints are longer than the old joints. The jam nuts had been left in place a new ball joints installed, thus lengthing both links. Maybe your heim joint was replaced the same way.
I hope all that rambling will help.

John147 · #12 07-10-2012, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt G.

That's not a clevis, it's a heim joint.

Is the forward ball joint bottomed out yet? The drag link needs to get shorter. I'm wondering if you have a WF drag link on there, as I think those are longer.

The forward ball joint is tight. I really think this is a WF drag link, But i am having an issue on finding what the lengthen should be for both so i can tell 100% what i have.

Matt G. · #13 07-10-2012, 06:47 AM

Given the number of people on here with both NF and WF tractors, I'd hope someone could measure both for you and post the lengths...

jbrewer · #14 07-10-2012, 06:52 AM

Without the drag link connected, can you move the spindles in the axle an equal amount?

John

Sam Mac · #15 07-10-2012, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt G.

That's not a clevis, it's a heim joint.

Is the forward ball joint bottomed out yet? The drag link needs to get shorter. I'm wondering if you have a WF drag link on there, as I think those are longer.

Matt

Unless I'm going blind the second pic shows a rod end clevis connected to the steering box. My guess is it's binding and the drag link is probably the wrong length also.

akilheffer · #16 07-10-2012, 07:53 AM

On my 107, the length from center to center of the ball joint studs is right about 17", the length of the rod appears to be about 15" (that's just a close approximation- I didn't pull the ends off to measure).
Hope this helps, Andy

Matt G. · #17 07-10-2012, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Matt

Unless I'm going blind the second pic shows a rod end clevis connected to the steering box. My guess is it's binding and the drag link is probably the wrong length also.

I think you're going blind...that's a heim joint, just like these:

Heim.jpg

Sam Mac · #18 07-10-2012, 04:40 PM

John147

We need a close up pic of the connection to the steering box. I say it's a clevis and Matt says it's a hiem joint.

ksanders · #19 07-10-2012, 04:44 PM

I have a different theory to try quick. Looking at your pics it appears the wheels aren't lined up straight. With the steering straight are both wheels pointing straight or is one off a little? Maybe the two tie rods are just reversed, meaning the one for the spindle to spindle and the one from the spindle to steering box got switched at one point? Worth looking at. That would give you the slight difference in length causing all the trouble.

John147 · #20 07-10-2012, 05:25 PM

I hate to declare this but Matt is right that is a heim joint.

So here are my measurements.

With everything off the drag link 15 1/2" end to end and just the rod no threads 12 1/4". The tie rod is well over 20 inches so the wheels may be a little off but the rods sure not switched.

I also noticed while surfing ebay the narrow frame drag links listed have a slight bend where they attached to the steering box and mines just straight.