1971 149 Moving Forward - Page 2

seabee2006 · #11 06-13-2012, 10:17 PM

"Things men have made with wakened hands, and put soft life into
are awake through years with transferred touch, and go on glowing
for long years.
And for this reason, some old things are lovely
warm still with the life of forgotten men who made them.”
― D.H. Lawrence

jbrewer · #12 06-14-2012, 06:39 AM

What a GREAT quote.

seabee2006 · #13 06-14-2012, 06:51 AM

Thanks, So many of you may have noticed I am inside a engine for the first time (sooo Cooool). I can see the scoring at the bottom of the cylinder where the piston seizes. Also I have been searching the threads for symilar. Thanks to all of you for getting me this far.
Glenn

ab147 · #14 06-14-2012, 05:42 PM

seabee, did you try rolling that engine over before you took it out? Looking down the bore doesn't look bad. Maybe get the bore mic'd to see if its straight, if it is maybe just hone it and put the right rings in it and try that. just my .02

seabee2006 · #15 06-14-2012, 06:26 PM

Yes, the engine turned over easy by hand and like I said earler in the thread 7 years ago it started up and ran for about 15 min before it seized to a stop. so something is expanding with the heat. someone at work today said that the scoring at the bottom of the cylinder is called piston slap and the rough edge on top might indicate that the cylinder was not honed when the new rings were put in. There is a ridge that I had to tap the piston past when I removed it. I am trying to find a motor machine shop in the area, I think NAPA might. Thanks for the hope that this might not be a total motor rebuild as the "Cub Motor fund" jar I set on the kitchen counter only has a couple of washers in it.lol

David a Calkins · #16 06-14-2012, 08:56 PM

you may not be in trouble ,first move that nest out ,you have no cooling ,but you know that ,next have a good machinist [mic] the bore and piston ,,check the top of piston ,to see if it was over size ,,the only way to check the end gap is remove the rings and place them in the bore ,but you will take a chance and brake them ,so you can do it this way ,and use a hose clamp .place around piston ,and pull up on clamp ,leaving room to see gap .shouls be in the range of .018 .and the gaps should be 180 degrees apart .from each outher .and not in line with the rist pin .or the rubbing area of the piston .the bore should be in the range of .0045 to .006 .and have the machinist check for taper .i think you will fine your [OK] hope this helps ,David

seabee2006 · #17 06-14-2012, 09:45 PM

Thanks, David,
The top of my piston says STD, I'm thinking that stands for Standard?
But I will let a machinist take a look. There are plenty of other parts begging for my attention.
Glenn

johncub7172 · #18 06-14-2012, 10:20 PM

See "Made it home safe" in the Kohler engines section. Here you will find what gets measured, and some great information can be found. I just had mine rebuilt.

seabee2006 · #19 06-16-2012, 09:43 AM

Thanks Johncub, Awesome thread. This is my first time inside a engine. The step by step pictures help.But I am not ready to do those measurment myself. Also I learned about the bagging and tagging from another thread. I am thinking I should put the engine back together to keep the dirt out of there and I can work on cleaning up the outside until I can drop it at the engine shop.

seabee2006 · #20 08-20-2012, 09:14 PM

OMG!! The cigarette lighter thread got me to run out and look and there it was. I have'nt posted for awhile but I find myself drawn to this forum everyday. I found a NAPA machine shop that mic'ed my cylinder and yes it is out of round. They gave me a quote for about 225 to to due all the machining and then the cost of the replacement parts. So lack of money has put the project on hold. My 2160 is still wocking hard but I see postings for it in both the LT and GT sections. Can someone let me know where it belongs so I can start on some of its issue's.