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  #11  
Old 02-03-2013, 08:09 PM
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What did you tourqe the rod cap to? I remember making that mistake before
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  #12  
Old 02-03-2013, 10:59 PM
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What do you think I will need to replace? Crank? Rod? Bearing?
Thanks for all of your help!
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  #13  
Old 02-03-2013, 11:26 PM
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Should I plan on replacing one, or multiple parts?
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  #14  
Old 02-03-2013, 11:29 PM
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What did you tourqe the rod cap to? I remember making that mistake before
I don't remember, other than it was something I found online somewhere.... Isn't everything on the Internet true?. Hahaha
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  #15  
Old 02-03-2013, 11:39 PM
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I agree with Don and Merk...rod cap on backwards or whole rod in backwards. That should teach you to pay more attention to the service manual.

Nobody has a crystal ball to tell you what will need replacing...take it apart and see what happened. If you can clean the aluminum off the journal and have it still be within spec, you will get away with just a new rod, but no amount of speculation on our part is going to help.
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  #16  
Old 02-04-2013, 06:09 PM
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I've found over the years that muratic acid works great for removing aluminum from cyl walls and cranks. just use it in a well ventilated area, keep water nearby to neutralize it , wear your rubber gloves and safety glass's.
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  #17  
Old 02-05-2013, 11:10 PM
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Is the gas being shut off after use? Fuel could be seeping in causing extra pressure on the cold start. Just food for thought.
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  #18  
Old 02-06-2013, 06:32 AM
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Is the gas being shut off after use? Fuel could be seeping in causing extra pressure on the cold start. Just food for thought.
No. If the cylinder had that much gas in it, the engine would never start either due to hydraulic lock or the plug being totally soaked with gas.
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:01 PM
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Just saying, the fuel could be getting into the block through the rings causing causing similar problems the gentleman has described. This doesn't mean that the plug could be fouled if the fuel has a place to go. I have seen it dozens of times. Just food for thought.
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:04 PM
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Just saying, the fuel could be getting into the block through the rings causing causing similar problems the gentleman has described. This doesn't mean that the plug could be fouled if the fuel has a place to go. I have seen it dozens of times. Just food for thought.
It cannot get in through the rings...the bore is over an inch above the carb on these engines. If the needle and seat in the carb malfunctions on a K-series single, the fuel takes the path of least resistance out of the air cleaner. The only way for gas to get into the crankcase on these engines would be past the intake valve guide, and there's no way very much (if any) could go that way because the easy way out for the gas in this situation is out the atmospheric vent and out of the air cleaner.
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