317 deck parts or repair

[Methos]

That looks a lot better! Good job!

[ACecil]

Originally Posted by Cannon51

I've got it back together. I have at least reduced the "sore thumb" look of the arm and wheel. I intended to take the deck apart, repair and paint it this winter but maybe next year.
Cannon

Looks great! Job well done!

[EricR]

Yep, great job!!!

[Sam Mac]

Good as old and better than new LOL. Nice job.

[nightcrew17]

how did you remove the flange bearing that keeps the front castor assemly to the wheel? I was able to remove the lube fitting by unscrewing it but now there's the brass flange bearings that won't come out so I can replace the front castor assembly.

I'd appreciate any help you can provide.

Jason

[CADplans]

The deck is looking good.

I think the biggest dilemma with the wheels on the decks is the misunderstanding of what they are for.

They are not gauge wheels.

These decks are intended to be suspended, hanging on the frame of the tractor.

Look at the wheels on a 1861.



If you were to use these wheels as gauge wheels, they would last about three hours of use, before they were ripped off.

They were intended to hit occasionally, if there is a hump in the lawn.

This tractor has gauge wheels on the deck, the deck actually rides on the 4 pneumatic tire/wheel assemblies.



Those wheels have needle bearings, grease fittings, and the strength to carry the deck.

Even this deck is partially spring suspended so some of the weight is on the tractor frame.

So adjusting the wheels correctly will make them last far longer.

[Oak]

Cannon, looks like you got it now.

Cad, I think those are gauge wheels on that deck. I couldn't find a manual for it but they look just like the ones on the 3000 series tractors. It was too much money for Cub to put bearings in them so they used a brass insert that will wear out. My Kubota B7500 uses the same poor design and I replaced them a few times until I switched both over to a sealed bearing and have had no problem since.

[CADplans]

Originally Posted by Oak

Cannon, looks like you got it now.

Cad, I think those are gauge wheels on that deck. I couldn't find a manual for it but they look just like the ones on the 3000 series tractors. It was too much money for Cub to put bearings in them so they used a brass insert that will wear out. My Kubota B7500 uses the same poor design and I replaced them a few times until I switched both over to a sealed bearing and have had no problem since.

Anybody got a manual!??

[Mike McKown]

Originally Posted by CADplans

Anybody got a manual!??

Well, the manual isn't clear.

Under deck leveling/adjustments:

Section B

Note wheel height adjustment should be performed only AFTER the deck has been properly installed and leveled.

Raise the deck to its highest setting in order to release pressure on the deck wheels.

Pull out the quick release pin.

With pin pulled out, slide the ball wheels or gauge wheel bracket up or down until the desired height is reached.

Reinsert the quick release pin.

Lower the deck and check for proper wheel adjustment. If adjustment is not adequate, repeat steps 1 through 5.


Section C

Basically just tells you the mower deck height can be set in multiple locations.


The manual does not specifically spell out ANY relationship between the Ball/Gauge wheels and deck cutting height.

If I was a new or inexperienced owner of one of these mowers, I would interpret the manual as saying the Gauge/Ball wheels should carry the weight of the deck while mowing. The local Cub dealer here (who has seven different stores over two states) also agrees the deck should be carried by the wheels and this is the way they set up every new tractor. Maybe that's why most of the Cubs in this area have the wheels/bushings/axles worn out, broken axles, brackets ripped off the decks, etc. If you have one of these decks that's been run flat on the ground, you can spend a lot of time/money getting them back the way they were when new.

I run my Ball/Gauge wheels at the same level as the cutting height. That way, I eliminate the excessive wear on part, damaged parts and the only time the wheels really support any weight is when I hit an irregularity in the yard.

This works for me. I understand others do it differently.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=22531

[Cannon51]

Originally Posted by nightcrew17

how did you remove the flange bearing that keeps the front castor assemly to the wheel? I was able to remove the lube fitting by unscrewing it but now there's the brass flange bearings that won't come out so I can replace the front castor assembly.

I'd appreciate any help you can provide.

Jason

Jason, sorry I haven't check in in a few days. The picture in post #8 shows one of the bushings I removed setting on top of the arm. The ones on either side are the new ones that I installed in the top and bottom of the arm. I did not remove the wheel from the yoke. I put the arm in a vise and knocked the old bushing out with a hammer and drift pin. I hope I understood your question and will be happy to give any information I can. Sadly I need much more help than I can give.
Cannon