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  #11  
Old 05-27-2013, 08:03 PM
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CADplans CADplans is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBounds View Post
Because of the serrated grip edges of the slip jaw pliers, I usually place a small flat piece of wood between the button head and the plier nose. The stem will be a tight friction fit and a wee bit will be shaved off as you press it straight in. Press it in till the entire back side of the button head is flush with the lever. Leave a gap and it will break the stem off as soon as you disengage the clutch the first time or two. A little practice and you will get good at it (:-)...
I guess, in other words, order two!! ??

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  #12  
Old 05-27-2013, 08:38 PM
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cubfixer cubfixer is offline
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On my 100, the button presses in easily. On my 124, it takes a firmer press to push it into the hole. I'd buy two, or drill the hole round and clean first.
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Proud Owner of a Model 100 and a Model 124.
A homemade cart, 2 x 42" mower decks, a 38" deck,
a 42" front NF blade, and a lawn sweeper!
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  #13  
Old 05-27-2013, 09:44 PM
wvcub126 wvcub126 is offline
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Join Date: May 2013
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Default pto

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Originally Posted by Cjbdvm04 View Post
In a previous post I discussed how the PO had mucked around with the PTO on my 127. The entire PTO was the wide-frame style except for the pressure spring. The one that was on there was the single spring with the tips of the spring bent over. When I rebuilt the PTO, I went with the correct double set of springs. I adjusted the fingers to the proper settings using the metal gauge. I set the clearance between the steel PTO button and the rock shaft button within spec. After doing some yard work (mowing, pulling a cart) with the PTO mostly engaged but disengaged at times I noticed that the steel button had nearly destroyed the brass button. Well, destroyed probably isn't the correct word. About half of the material is worn off of the brass button and it now has a concave face. Is this PTO setup incompatible with a narrow frame? It seems as though there is tremendous pressure on the PTO when disengaged and this is causing the excessive wear to the brass button. Should I loosen the screws a bit to reduce the pressure necessary to disengage? Should I remove one of the pressure springs and go with just one? Should I swap out the two flat springs and go with the "bent-tab" narrow frame spring? Any help or suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Here is your problem, There is 2 style of pto one bent-tab spring, the other has the two flat spring, sounds like you have parts from both. the brass button is not HI part.
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  #14  
Old 05-28-2013, 06:54 AM
Cjbdvm04 Cjbdvm04 is offline
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Originally Posted by wvcub126 View Post
Here is your problem, There is 2 style of pto one bent-tab spring, the other has the two flat spring, sounds like you have parts from both. the brass button is not HI part.
No. That was my problem initially. The PO hybridized two PTOs. The body was a style B but the spring was a style A (the kind with bent tips). I now have it the way it should be with style B body and 2 style B springs.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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