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  #11  
Old 05-29-2013, 02:37 PM
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drglinski drglinski is offline
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If it's not broken then why fix it?
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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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  #12  
Old 05-29-2013, 03:32 PM
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If anybody is willing to try this theory out I have a rear out of a 1250 ill donate to the cause. I'm just tripping over it at the moment
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  #13  
Old 05-29-2013, 04:24 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Wow! I have never seen one puke like that. Don't think it's because of not running Hy-Tran, more likely the PO never changed the filter and it went into bypass allowing unfiltered oil into the system. Piston closed loop systems recirculate the oil so one they start to fail the junk in the oil just keeps going around in the system making things worse. The only oil that gets filtered is what the charge pump supplies for makeup oil that is needed to keep the piston pump full. I love hearing people complain about how expensive it is to change the oil and filter. OK don’t do it then you can change the hydro and the oil and filter all at once. Once a year, new oil and filter. Did the same with the 20 ready mix concrete trucks I owned that had a much larger version of the Sundstrand pump and motor to turn the drum. If one of those fails not only do you need a new pump and motor but the concrete gets hard in the drum. Never had one fail and I had some that went 20,000 hours before they showed signs of needing overhaul. We used Mobil 1310 engine oil in them, 1310 was a 10W diesel engine oil. Also used it in the hydraulics on my Cat loaders and in our Allison transmissions.
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  #14  
Old 05-29-2013, 04:52 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
I am not sure how this happened but it did not have hytran in it.Iv'e had 8 of these apart and the brass plungers are always scratched up on the bottom.
Did yours have any Sam?
Lew the brass parts are called slippers and they ride against the swash plates. If you are seeing scratches it's from contamination. They should be nice and smooth. I'm guessing these are old units with a lot of time and very little or no maintenance. Sorry I don't have more pics of this. This is the inside of my 2182 pump, you can see the swash plate and the slippers. Also something I do is cut filters open and see it I see signs of a failure starting. You can buy a filter cutter from places like Summit racing or Jegs.
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  #15  
Old 05-29-2013, 05:29 PM
Maxwelhse Maxwelhse is offline
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Originally Posted by cubby102 View Post
If anybody is willing to try this theory out I have a rear out of a 1250 ill donate to the cause. I'm just tripping over it at the moment
I had another dirty thought... On my 149 the pump shaft goes completely through the housing and comes out the back with a hole in the shaft for a pin to drop through...

Turning the rear end around in the chassy would be a neat trick to go fast in R!

Still unsure why you would want to, but why not?
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  #16  
Old 05-29-2013, 07:31 PM
mike melillo mike melillo is offline
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Originally Posted by drglinski View Post
If it's not broken then why fix it?
Without a doubt i'm a glutton for punishment. My whole life I have to tamper with things. This has resulted in both good and bad experience, but has also taught me many things you cannot learn without the experience.

mike
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  #17  
Old 05-29-2013, 07:46 PM
Maxwelhse Maxwelhse is offline
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Without a doubt i'm a glutton for punishment. My whole life I have to tamper with things. This has resulted in both good and bad experience, but has also taught me many things you cannot learn without the experience.

mike
I'm with you, Mike! Grind that thing down to a nub if it makes you happy!

I have a spare (and very whipped, based on the gear lash in the diff) 149 rear you can have if your experiment goes sour. Just come and get it!
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  #18  
Old 05-29-2013, 08:53 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Jonathan

I agree with you about not pulling the pistons on larger piston pumps but that does not seem to be the case on the pumps in the Cubs. Reading the service manual it makes no mention of them being matched to the bore, in fact it tells you to inspect them for wear. I had my pump on my 2182 totally apart when I replaced all the seals and did not worry about what piston went in what bore when I put it back together. It runs great.
By no means will I argue that logic. I was stating what I was told when trained in hydrostatic transmissions. We did actually hold a piston in our hand and it wouldn't go back in the bore. I will admit it was not a small pump like these. I have never seen anyone pull the pistons out, put them back in randomly and have a failure.... But they taught us to mark them and not to randomly install them. I did not mean to make a failure sound like a guarantee..... Just what I always do and what I've been taught. Sam, I think that your advice is the most sound, and your right on about why the pumps/ motors fail. We were taught that with proper service a hydrostat should never fail. Best of luck Mike!!
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  #19  
Old 05-29-2013, 08:59 PM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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Sam...
Thanks for the correction.A good filter and fluid change at the correct intervals and these pumps should last a long time.What happens to the guy who lets the concrete set up in the drum,clean it out then fire him?

We did a pour on time and the guy did a quick wash out on the job,figured he wash out the rest in a stream nearby...
just in time for the cop to drive buy...
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  #20  
Old 05-30-2013, 06:31 AM
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Sam...
Thanks for the correction.A good filter and fluid change at the correct intervals and these pumps should last a long time.What happens to the guy who lets the concrete set up in the drum,clean it out then fire him?

We did a pour on time and the guy did a quick wash out on the job,figured he wash out the rest in a stream nearby...
just in time for the cop to drive buy...
Lew

You are giving me flash backs and the reasons I am no longer in the concrete biz.
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