IH Cub Cadet 124 Creeper Gear ?

[cubfixer]

You are going to have to split the tractor. Support the tractor rear. Remove the roll pin in front of the tranny, remove the three bolts on each side of the tranny, and the rear end can be rolled out from under the tractor. You are going to have to remove the drive shaft to shorten it. Easy when you split the tractor. When the tractor is split, you can install the creeper gear easily.

Good luck!

[boxccc]

Let me tell you the rest of the story: As I mentioned in my other THREADS (boxccc), I did not have a good manual to start the Creeper gear project.I was not aware of the ability of SPLITTING the tractor to gain access. I was able to get the drive shaft disconnected from the engine and the tranny by using the small openings for the creeper gear selector handle and hammered out the Spiral Pins to disconnect the drive shaft from the tranny. From underneath the tractor with disassemble of the implement lift bar and lift handle support, I was then able to maneuver the drive shaft and clutch mechanism out from the compartment once the 4 bolts where released from the engine pulley.

Now not being totally comfortable with shortening the drive shaft to accommodate the creeper gear/box, I was able to locate a nearby CC salvage parts location to obtain shaft and clutch assembly without destroying my original. (meaning I could put things back together if they didn't work). I was fortunate that he could cut down the shaft he had (very precisely, I might add) and reassemble it to the loading spring, teaser spring, and ?cup (missing from mine) and the clutch plate.

I then installed the Creeper gear/box etc carefully. You should note that the shorter portion of the gear attaches to the tranny shaft and the slightly longer portion fits into the gear box mechanism. Note that it has a bushing that fits over the shaft. That small gear can fit either way but only one is correct.I was then able to install the drive shaft from the engine and it connected precisely with the creeper input shaft and the coupler fit exactly and the spiral pin holes lined up. I then drove the pins without difficulty and finally bolting the clutch drive plate to the engine pulley with the 4 bolts. I should mention that every step of the way I tested to make sure that the creeper gear selector would properly move and lock in either the HI or LO.

After reassembly of all the essentials, I lowered the tractor and gave it a test start. Engine started without problem but I could not get the tranny to engage....Oh, Oh...after through inspection and reference to the manual (which I should have done a bit more thoroughly) AND noting that an extra drive plate was sitting on the bench...I sadly realized me and my part supplier had not fixed the forward drive plate to the shaft...

Well the question now is should I do the disassemble from the bottom like I did the first time or should I now SPLIT THE TRACTOR and start all over? This is rather embarrassing since in my former life (before retirement) as i worked I would always check my work, then check it a second time then check it a third time...then for the hell of it checked it again, before closing the job.

I apologize for sharing this mis-adventure but possibly someone will gain from it...

DEDEMau from DinkyDau...RVN...DaNang

New problems have developed since what I posted above:

1. The clutch plates were properly installed, why I thought one was missing was an oversight caused by working too late on several projects.

2. Working from the bottom of the tractor as previously described, I manually turned the engine at the clutch and noted that it turned the drive shaft up to the couple r which is fixed to the input shaft of the creeper gear box by the proper Spirol pins. I then put the tranny into 1st. gear and the creeper gear into high and manually turned the engine meeting some resistance. At this point I was not sure what I was dealing with, so I did uncouple the coupler and removed the Creeper gear box and it easily dropped out of the bottom.

3. The sliding gear that fixes to the tranny input shaft(reduction gear) was solidly fixed with the proper length Spirol (spiral) pin. Now when turning this gear attached to the tranny input shaft, I would meet very little resistance, regardless as to what gear I had selected. I then elevated the tractor rear to free the wheels and inspite of what rotation direction, the input shaft(gear attached) would not turn. If I locked the wheels down again and manually turned the input shaft, I met little if any resistance.

Therefore, is my problem in the tranny and if so where and how do I get to it with a CC 124?

My haunting question is: How did I take a perfectly good running tractor and screwed it up by removing a perfectly good drive shaft and replacing it with a Creeper gear, result in the loss of any motion, forward or reverse? Could driving out the original Spiral pins have done damage to a gear in the tranny? I may have to go back to my walk behind tillers.

I know its late but I ain't about to give up ....My wife wonders if the forum is going to run out of space with my ongoing problem.

[OldAndInTheWay]

I have a 124 that came with a creeper. It is really geared down with creeper engaged! Only use I have for it is when maneuvering in really tight spaced. Been informed to not consider it for trying to increase pulling power but instead what you need it for, to slow the tractor down to let the tiller/snow thrower work best.

Great tractor!

Mowed some grass this weekend that was up to the hood and it did great! Just took it slow.

[Yosemite Sam]

I would pull the engine, and the grill. Not the grill shell, just the grill.

Put the Front pressure plate on the shaft then the 3 pin driver, put the pins of the driver in the holes in the clutch disk.

Then, using a hydraulic bottle jack and a couple of 2 X 4's, put a 2 X 4 crossways of the grill shell then hold the bottom of the bottle jack against the 2 X 4 then put the other 2 X 4 between the top of the jack and the front side of the three pin driver.

Pump the jack to push the 3 pin driver against the front pressure plate until the holes in the pressure plate and drive shaft line up, then drive the pin through the front plate and the shaft.