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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#11
08-22-2013, 10:14 AM
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 The area of contact from the crank to the piece 2, keyed clutch disk looks good. Appears to have some small rub on it, but no loss of materials.  The keyed clutch disk has very obvious wear and grooving where it has made contact with the coil/field housing.  The field and housing. The potting melted partially out, and pulled the coil out from the recess and has some rub on the windings. No wires are cut/broken, and still pulls proper amps. The housing itself shows wear along both inner and outer lips with some 'mushrooming' on the lips. It appears even across the entire housing lip, and there is no wearing other than the lip, so the field was not installed off 'level' with the engine mount. 
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#12
08-22-2013, 01:25 PM
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How many volts is the charging system putting out? Also, grab the crankshaft and see if it moves up and down, or in and out. You may have to put a bolt in the front and pry on it to check the endplay.
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#13
08-22-2013, 01:57 PM
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You may need to put a thin spacer on the crank to give you a bit more clearance, ask me how I know.
 Take a look at the steel shims, 1.125 ID X 1.625 OD http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-shims/=o6dsh9
__________________
2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL
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#14
08-23-2013, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
How do you know Sam? My question is, how long have you run with a shim, and have you seen any problems by using the shim in this place? Theoretically, in my mind There should be nothing wrong with a shim, as this seems to be the most economical solution to my current problem. As to the question about play on the crank, there is no lateral/up/down/side to side play in it that I can see. There is some thrust play in it(forwards/back), but I can not measure it as it is so small...
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#15
09-09-2013, 10:38 PM
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After many a careful hours of slowly pulling epoxy/potting out of the second magnetic coil on the PTO I got it out, and found that ALL the epoxy that melted had sucked behind the coil and re-hardened there after the heat was gone. I was able to carefully 'grind' the excessive epoxy off and able to recess the coil back into the housing. Re-soldered the one wire from coil to ground back into place, and used 'Quick Steel' to anchor the coil back into place.
After using a few thin shims, I was able to get the clearance from the coil housing and clutch disk. And today... I spent almost 6 hours on it going in circles! PITA to mow 2 acres when the grass comes up to the top of the front wheels in most places....
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